Generation Y
is a Blog inspired by people like me, with names that begin with or
contain a "Y." Born in Cuba in the 1970s and 1980s, marked by
schools in the countryside, Russian cartoons, illegal emigration and
frustration. So I invite especially Yanisleidi, Yoandri, Yusimí,
Yuniesky and others who drag their "Y's" to read my Blog and to
write to me.
The July 26 event started early, in fear of the evening rains and
to avoid the sun that makes the neck itch and annoys the audience.
It had the solemnity that is already inherent in the Cuban system:
heavy, outdated, and at times dusty. Nothing seemed to jump out of
the script; Raúl Castro didn’t take the podium, nor was the speech
addressed to a nation waiting for a program of changes. His absence
at the microphone should not be read as a intention to decentralize
responsibility and allow someone else to speak at such a
commemoration. The general did not speak because he had nothing to
say, no launching of a reform package, because he knows that would
be playing with the power, the control, that his family has
exercised for five decades.
In previous speeches, on this same date, the phrases of the Cuban
Communist Party’s second secretary have created more confusion than
certainty, so this time he avoided analysts reinterpreting them.
Enough doubts have already been created with his 2007 predictions of
mass access to milk, his unfulfilled forecast of having Santiago de
Cuba’s aqueduct completed, and the unfortunate phrase “I’m
just a shadow,” with which he began his speech last year.
Perhaps because of this he preferred to remain silent and leave the
address to the most unyielding man of his government: José Ramón
Machado Ventura. Some portentous cannon shots shook the city of
Havana just as the first vice president approached the podium and
began his harangue filled with platitudes and declarations of
intransigence.
Referring to the postponed measures to address the economy and
society, Machedo Ventura declared that they will be made, “step by
step at a pace determined by us.” The old confusion with the first
person plural, the well-known ambiguity of the apparently
consensual. The pace, the velocity and the depth of these
long-awaited apertures are decided by a small group which has much
to lose if they apply them, and time to benefit if they delay them.
Some will say Raúl Castro’s silence is part of his strategy to avoid
bluster and bravado. But, more than political discretion, what we
saw today is pure State secretiveness. To make no public commitments
to change, no visible implications of transformation, can be a way
of warning us that these do not respond to his political will, but
rather to a momentary despair which — he thinks — will eventually
pass. By saying nothing, he has sent us his fullest message: “I owe
you no explanations, no promises, no results.”
An acquaintance of my mother, who lives very near to a Lady in
White, told her that they are under orders not to assault these
women in light clothing with gladioli in their hands. The same
lady, who until recently wore a sneer of disgust when talking
about the masses at Santa Rita and the pilgrimages on 5th
Avenue, today was on the point of shaking hands with Laura
Pollán and asking for her autograph. Perhaps another neighbor,
who screamed “The worms are rioting!” last March on national
television, is now confused and waiting for new orders to return
to her rants. The mechanisms of false spontaneity have been
exposed by this truce: the manufacture of that supposed popular
response is confirmed by this interruption in the attacks.
From the point of view of the official
discourse, the people who have been released from prison in
recent weeks deserved to be prey. Using this argument, and
certain known pressures, they mobilized Party militants and
members of the Committees for the Defense of the Revolution to
participate in so-called “repudiation rallies” where they spat
on, insulted and knocked about the Ladies in White. Now the
energetic troublemakers who came to “defend the Revolution
against the mercenaries in the pay of the imperialists” should
be expecting some explanation to justify
the prisoner
releases. It would be interesting to go to a meeting of the
Party nucleus to see what secret revelations they come up with,
because if none are offered they will end up seeing themselves
as pawns in the control of those who incite them one day and
then the next day command them to keep quiet.
My mother’s acquaintance doesn’t hide
her confusion. “There’s no one who understand them. Yesterday
they called us to insult them, and today we’re not allowed to
touch a hair on their heads,” she says. The truth is that here,
where it seemed like nothing would ever happen, we are suddenly
in a situation where anything can happen. At what point did
history begin to change? Perhaps in the damp, dark,
vermin-filled punishment cell where Orlando Zapata Tamayo
decided to sacrifice himself; or in the sterile, chilly
intensive care ward where Guillermo Fariñas stuck by his
decision to die if they were not freed; or in the streets of
Havana, where some defenseless women defied an omnipotent power
by screaming the word freedom, where there was none.
The truce — brief and fragile —
appears to be limited to Havana as in Banes Reina Tamayo
continues to be a victim of the same methods.
I managed to sneak into the stairway when the
workers went to the dining room to scarf down their lunch. It was the
summer of 1992 and the temptation to climb to the cupola of the Capitol
was stronger than the “keep out” warning written in red letters. Up
above, the cobwebs the structural shoring, and the openings in the
molding, alternated with objects covered in dust. From the height I
looked down, where a shiny dome marks kilometer zero of the national
highway.
Havana’s Capitol has been humiliated by its
past, punished for seeming too much like Washington’s and embarrassed
for having sheltered — once — the congress. Like a symbol of that
republic demonized by the official propaganda, the imposing building has
suffered the fate of the castigated. The Academy of Sciences established
itself there, filling its spacious interior with partitions, and an
ancient museum of stuffed animals located just below the chamber.
Several bat colonies camped inside, spraying the walls with their feces
and making holes is the decorative embellishments. The nooks and
crannies of the facade became the most popular urinal in a several bloc
radius.
A few years ago word
got around that an Italian millionaire had donated a set of lights for
this architectural gem. But by bit the light bulbs burned out and the
colossus of stone and marble once again went dark. To the surprise of
those who already took for a condemned site, billboards have recently
been erected around it announcing the restoration of the majestic
building. Hopefully the repairs won’t take longer than the brief years
of its construction, and the Capitol will become — one day — the site of
the Cuban parliament: a magnificent building that houses real debates.
Jumping out of bed, there’s a loudspeaker
roaring outside. I don’t understand what it’s saying, but I wash my face
as if it were the last time. Maybe it’s the start of the war so often
announced in recent days. My son sleeps late and I have the desire to
wake him up and warn him, but I don’t understand the words coming from
the loudspeaker and the truck has already moved away toward the avenue.
When are those who terrify us going to give an
account of themselves? Those who have spent decades dangling the ghost
of the cataclysm in front of our faces. It is very easy to forecast and
call for war when you have a bunker, soldiers, a bullet-proof vest. To
those heralds of the end, let them try being here, amid the buzzing of
the loudspeaker and the child who opens his eyes and asks, frightened,
“Mommy, what’s happening, why is there so much noise?”
The term “revolutionary” has a different meaning in the Cuba of today
than we would find in any Spanish language dictionary. To deserve such
an epithet it is enough to exhibit more conformity than criticism, to
choose obedience over rebellion, to support the old before the new. To
be considered a man of the cause, requires one to manage a convenient
silence and to watch arbitrariness and excesses March by without
pointing them out to the highest levels of responsibility. A word that
once gave rise to thoughts of ruptures and transformations, has evolved
into a mere synonym for “reactionary.” Paradoxically, those who believe
in safeguarding the essence of the “revolution” are precisely those who
show a greater political immobility and who promote — with more
animosity — the punishment of the reformers.
Esteban Morales, who until recently enjoyed the privilege of
appearing live in front of the TV microphones, learned of such semantic
mutations by dint of suffering them. A Communist Party member, academic,
and specialist on issues relating to the United States, he had the
dangerous idea of
writing an article against corruption.
His questions dealt primarily not with the daily diversion of resources
— as we call stealing from
the State
— which is how many Cuban families manage to make it to the end of the
month, but rather the ethical decay that has established itself higher
up, in the estates of power, where embezzlement and misappropriation
reach lavish levels. He had the unfortunate experience of putting into
writing that, “there are people in government and state jobs who are
positioning themselves financially for when the Revolution falls.” It is
a conclusion anyone can draw just by looking at the fat necks of the
managers, the shiny Geely cars belonging to the officers of CIMEX
corporation, or the high railings surrounding the houses of the
commercial hierarchy, but Morales committed the audacity of pointing it
out from within the system itself.
Imbued with the calls for constructive criticism, calling things by
their name, speaking openly, Esteban Morales thought his article would
be read as the healthy concern of one who wants to save the process. He
forgot that others with similar intentions had already been labeled as
divisive, manipulated from the outside, addicted to the honey of power,
and ideologically deviant. For less than this, journalists had lost
their jobs, students their places at the university, and economists,
lawyers and even agronomists had been stigmatized. Once punished with an
indefinite suspension from the core of the PCC, the previously trusted
professor has started down a road that we know well where it starts, but
not where it ends. Experience says that the route of sanctions is never
traversed in the reverse direction. Those ousted eventually realize that
those they used to consider the “enemy,” could at some point prove to be
people imbued with
the original meaning of the word “revolution.”
Yoani Sánchez:What is your current
situation? Where are you and what have they told you?
Pedro Argüelles: I’m in the provincial prison
of Canaletas in Ciego de Avila. And what I have been told is on
Saturday, July 10, I went to
the office
of the head of the prison and there they put me through on the
phone to talk to the Archbishop of Havana, Cardinal Jaime
Ortega. He informed me that I was on the list of those who would
leave for Spain if I would agree to go. I told him that no, I
had no interest in leaving my country. He asked me about my wife
as well, if she would have any interest. I said no. Well, he
told me, he would report back and he said goodbye. That is all I
have been told, they haven’t told me anything more, I’m here
waiting for events and their development.
Yoani Sánchez:Pedro, do you think these
releases will strengthen or weaken the dissident movement and
independent journalism inside Cuba?
Pedro Argüelles: Well, look, whether or not
it will affect the strength honestly I can’t say right now
because I am here inside and I’ve been here seven and a half
years, here in the prison. I know there are new groups, I know
there are new people doing independent journalism, carrying on
the civil struggle. I think it doesn’t weaken it because in any
case there are new pines, as our apostle Jose Marti said, and
well, since 1976 when the first cell of the Cuban Committee for
Human Rights was created in the Combinado del Este prison, that
was the first cell, and we could get to this point because there
have been relays, reliefs, there have been people who have
carried on, people who died, new people coming out into the
public arena. So I think that, ultimately, here we fulfill the
law that everyone has the right and the freedom to decide for
their own person, my brothers who would like to go I have
absolutely nothing against them, that is their sovereign
decision, it is their freedom. I make use of the thoughts of
Marti who said that the duty of a man is to be where he is most
useful. I believe that here is where I am most useful, that this
is my place to fight for the rights and freedom inherent in the
dignity of the human person and this is where I want to be. I
don’t want to be in any other place, here on the front line of
combat facing the Castros’ totalitarian regime.
Yoani Sánchez:And what will Pedro
Argüelles do once he is outside Canaletas prisons?
Pedro Argüelles: Continue what we started in
mid-1992 when I joined the Cuban Committee for Human Rights here
in Ciego de Avila and then in 1998 founded the Ciego de Avila
Independent Journalists Cooperative. Continue to denounce human
rights violations and continue with the independent press and
civil struggle. In order to achieve what we have so longed for
and suffered for, the transition to democracy in Cuba.
Yoani Sánchez:Well, Pedro, thank you
very much and we really hope that your name is among the next to
be freed. We wish so much to give you that embrace so long
postponed.
Pedro Argüelles: Some day it will happen,
and I too am longing to meet with all all these new pines that
have arisen.
After 134 days without solid food, or even a sip of liquid,
Guillermo Fariñas lifted a red plastic cup to his lips and drank a
little water. It was 2:15 in the afternoon on Thursday July 8, and
from the other side of the glass in the intensive care ward where he
was being treated, dozens of friends watching him burst into
applause as if they had been witnesses to a miracle.
Fariñas had won one
battle but still remains in a fierce war against death, because the
land that has seen the action of this singular belligerency is his
own body — ultimately the only space available to him to carry out
this campaign. His intestines are now like fragile paper conduits
distilling bacteria through their pores, his jugular vein is
partially obstructed by a blood clot which, if it detached, could
lodge in the heart, brain or lungs; or more precisely, in his heart,
his brain or his lungs. He has suffered four staph infections and at
night a sharp pain in his groin barely allows him to sleep.
His shriveled esophagus
was not ready for that first sip of water. It created such a pain in
his chest that for a minute he thought he was having a heart attack,
but he endured it in silence. On the other side of the glass,
expectantly watching, were those who for days had been keeping a
vigil outside the hospital, praying for his life, and others who had
come from very far away to ask him to end his martyrdom and to be a
witnesses to his victory. Not wanting to dampen the celebration of
his jubilant colleagues applauding the triumph of his cause, he
managed to turn a grimace into a smile.
Guillermo Fariñas’s
family allowed me to watch over him on this, the first night after
the end of his hunger strike, and he allowed me to be a witness his
suffering, his occasional crankiness, and his human weaknesses. Only
then did I discover the true hero of this day.
There is a lot of speculation these days about the possible
release of the political prisoners. The official press, as
always — half asleep between growth statistics and old speeches
taken from the files — neither confirms nor denies these rumors.
A careful reading of the daily paper, Granma, tells us
that Spain’s Foreign Minister has arrived on the island to
condemn the American blockade, talk about climate change, and to
try to get the European Union to abandon its
Common Position* against Cuba. If we let ourselves believe
what the announcers, with their throaty voices and striped ties,
say, nothing is happening here… Or almost nothing. But we all
know that in the dark recesses of diplomacy, in the high
political terrain woven on the backs of the people, things are
moving.
Whispers come and go.
In them, the word “liberation” has been stuck to a term with
nefarious connotations: “deportation.” “They will go directly
from the prisons to the planes,” a gentleman who keeps his ear
glued to the radio told me, based on what he hears on the
prohibited broadcasts from the North. Forced expatriation,
expulsion, exile, has been standard practice to get rid of
dissenters. “If you don’t like it, leave,” they tell you from
the time you’re small; “Get up and go,” they spit at you if you
insist on complaining; “Why’d you come back?” is the greeting if
you dare to return and continue to point out what you don’t
like. The ability to rid themselves of the inconvenient, the
skill to push off the island platform anyone who opposes them,
this is a talent in which our leaders are quite adept.
Moratinos would have
to have a very large plane to fit all those who obstruct the
island’s authoritarians. Not even a jumbo jet could transport
all those potentially at risk of going to prison for their ideas
or their civil actions. A veritable airline with weekly flights
would be necessary to remove all those who don’t agree with the
administration of Raul Castro. But, as it turns out, many of us
do not want to go. Because the decision to live here or there is
something as personal as choosing a partner, or naming a child;
it is not permissible that so many Cubans find themselves caught
between the walls of prison and the sword of exile. It is
immoral to force emigration on those who might be released in
the coming days.
One question, simple
and logical, jumps out at us with regards to this issue:
Wouldn’t it be better if the ones they carried on this plane
were “them”?
Translator’s
note:
European Union Common Position on Cuba: Adopted in 1996, it
makes cooperation with the communist regime conditional on
improvements in human rights and political freedom. The text can
be
read at this link.
I
happened to overhear a scrap of conversation between two nurses
at a clinic near my home. “This coming week they will publish
the list…” said one, while the other looked at her with alarm
and answered something I didn’t manage to catch. A few yards
further on a
taxi driver, talking into his
cell phone, said, “I was saved, there are a ton of drivers on
the list, but not me.” The issue began to puzzle me. Although on
this Island there are no shortages of lists and inventories — in
some we are forced to appear and others they won’t even let us
peek at — one of them is especially upsetting for my
compatriots. I knew they were talking about the lists of those
who will be unemployed, pages full of names of those workers who
exceed the needs in each workplace.
About 25% of the
current workforce could end up on the street after the layoffs
already under way. Some employees have been advised a week
before their company runs out of money to pay them, and they
have been without any unemployment compensation to support
themselves until they can find another job. Faced with the
dilemma of staying home or working in agriculture or
construction, the majority choose to dive into domestic life in
the hopes of new opportunities. They figure they can work
offering illegal manicures, or preparing food to order, and it
might pay better dividends than bending their backs over a
furrow or raising brick walls.
Today, the issue of
layoffs is a worry shared by all Cubans, because at least one
member of each family will be affected by the cuts. However, the
official press only talks about the layoffs in Greece and Spain,
telling us about the call for a general strike in Madrid or the
collapse of the economy in Athens. In the meantime, popular
rumors feed off the personal stories of those who have already
appeared on the frightful lists. In workplaces employees crowd
around the wall, running their index fingers over the lists
expecting to come across their own names. No one can take to the
streets to protest what has happened, nor will they appear on
the TV that only mentions unemployment when it happens thousands
of miles away.
In one of life’s random events I came across Letters From
Burma by
Aung San Suu Kyi in a Havana bookstore. I didn’t find it in
one of the individually managed stalls selling used books, but
in a local State store that sells colorful editions in
convertible currency. The small volume, with a photo of her on
the cover, was mixed in among the self-help manuals and recipe
books. I glanced to both sides of the shelves to see if someone
had put the book there just for me, but the employees were
sleeping in the midday heat, one of them brushing flies off her
face without paying me any mind. I bought the valuable
collection of texts written by this dissident between 1995 and
1996, still taken by the surprise of finding them in my country
where we, like her, live under a military regime and strong
censorship of the word.
The pages with Aung San Suu Kyi’s chronicles — reflections on
everyday life mixed with political discourse and questions —
have barely touched the shelves of my home. Everyone wants to
read her calm descriptions of Burma, marked by fear, but also
steeped in a spirituality that makes her current situation more
dramatic. In the few months since I found the Letters,
the vivid and moving prose of this woman has influenced the way
we look at our own national disaster. The thread of hope that
she manages to weave into her words instills in them an
optimistic prognosis for her nation and for the world. No one
has been able to describe the horror from the sweetness as she
has, without the cries overwhelming her style and the rancor
being reflected in her eyes.
I can’t stop wondering how the texts of this Burmese
dissident made it into the bookstores of my country. Perhaps in
a bulk purchase someone slipped in the innocent-looking cover,
where an oriental woman tucks some flowers, as beautiful as her
face, behind her ear. Who knows if they thought it might be from
some writer of fiction or poetry, recreating the landscapes of
her country motivated by aestheticism or nostalgia. Probably
whoever placed it on the shelf didn’t know about her house
arrest, or the richly-deserved Nobel Peace Prize she won in
1991. I prefer to image that at least someone was aware that her
voice had come to us. An anonymous face, some hands quickly
placing the book on our shelf, so that when we approached it we
could feel and recognize our own pain.
Yesterday was a road-trip day. Two hours to Pinar del Rio and
returning at night on the asphalt highway that separates that
city and noisy Havana. The wind blowing in the window tangling
my hair, the wrenching of my neck every time the car hit a
pothole, and the fright of that the dark, wet highway, dotted
with police checkpoints. But these were only temporary
discomforts, forgotten when I recall Katrina’s patio packed with
members and friends of the magazine
Coexistence. Last night they announced the results of the
contest organized by that publication, which awarded prizes in
the categories of essay, audiovisual script, poetry, fiction and
photography.
Reinaldo and I were part of the jury, along with
Ángel Santiesteban, and
Orlando Pardo Lazo. In the afternoon we deliberated over the
texts and images we had been evaluating separately for weeks,
some of them coming under pseudonyms taken from Greek mythology.
When we opened the enveloped with the real names of the
contestants. We were happy to know that among the winners were
not only well-known authors, but young people as well who, for
the first time, had submitted their work in a contest. Around
nine at night we announced the winners, in the only
piece of patio that Urban Reform hadn’t confiscated from
Karina’s family. In front of the wall built months ago by the
administrators, phrases with the character of a chisel rang out,
like a drill that can go through any wall. For a couple of hours
it was as if the ugly wall of bricks and sheets of zinc wasn’t
there at all, as if we had razed it with our words.
Winners of the Coexistence contest:
Best Book of Stories: Francis Sánchez Rodríguez for The
Exit.
Best Essay: Dimas Castellanos Martí for Utopia, Challenges
and Difficulties in Today’s Cuba.
Best Book of Poetry: Pedro Lázaro Martínez Martínez for This
is not a poetic art…
Best Audiovisual Script: Henry Constantin Ferreiro for When
the Other World Ends.
Best Photographic Triptych: Ángel Martínez Capote for
Impotence.
A bluish-colored vase has stood for
a couple of days between the plants in our garden, fourteen
stories up. We still don’t have a clear idea of what we are
going to do with the ashes of my grandparents. For now, they are
sheltered among the ferns and shaded by the trumpet tree that
grows over the balcony wall. My mother managed, after appealing
to friends and materially encouraging the necessary officials,
to cremate her parents, who were lying in a public vault in
Columbus Cemetery. After the action of the fire, the result came
to rest inside a clay container which shows, in every inch, that
it contains the remains of a person.
Inside the amphora are Ana and
Elisha, the two grandparents with whom I was born and raised in
a tenement in Central Havana. She washed and ironed for the
street, he worked on the railroad and smoked his pipe before two
curious little girls who were my sister and me. Both
semi-literate, they had raised a small family to the pounding of
the washboard and soap, the pick and shovel on the railroad. The
two of them exhibited that mix of genius and authority that made
us love and fear them. They had Asturian and Canary Island
blood, maybe that’s why “Papán” delighted in country music and
everyone in the neighborhood nicknamed Ana “the Galician.” Their
prized possessions were a wardrobe and a mahogany bed, and a
china cabinet with cups we could never use because they were
only decorations for the small dining-living-bedroom.
My grandfather died the same year
as the Mariel boatlift. His heart was padded with the fat from
the pork cracklings he liked so much. He went in peace and left
Ana in her new state of widowhood for at least five years. Her
leaving was much sadder: she was sitting in the wrong chair in
El Lluera cafeteria, when a couple of drunks came in throwing
bottles and one hit her on the forehead. Our time with our
grandparents came to an speedy end. Goodbye to being spoiled,
stockings mended by skilled hands, and warm milk to see us to
bed. In all this time I never went to see their graves, but the
grey granite could not replace the memories I had of them. Today
— stubbornly — they have returned to be with me, in a small vase
as simple and ephemeral as their own lives.
For several days I have been coaching
my son for his final secondary school exams. I dusted off my notions
about quadratic equations, formulas for calculating the area of a
pyramid, and factoring. After more than twenty years of not
encountering these mathematical complexities, I reconnected neurons
to help him prepare and to avoid paying the high price of a tutor.
More than once, during these days of study, I was on the verge of
giving up, faced with the evidence that numbers are not my forte.
But I resisted. Only when Teo returned from his most difficult
test, saying he’d done well, did I feel relieved, as many of his
classmates are in danger of repeating a grade. The reason is that in
their three years of middle school, these students have seen three
different evaluation methods paraded before them. They have also
been affected by the lack of preparation of the so-called “emerging
teachers” and the long hours of classes taught by television. For
two semesters my son’s group has had no teachers in English and
computing, and the assigned hour of physical education consists of
an hour of running around the schoolyard, unsupervised. The lack of
requirements and the bad quality of the education has left us
parents trying to put patches over the innumerable gaps in
knowledge.
Fortunately, Teo’s school is not one of the worst. Although the
smell of the bathroom sticks to the walls and clothes, because no
one wants to work as a cleaning aid for the miserable wages the job
pays, at least there is not as much haphazardness as in other
schools in Havana. Nor, and this is a relief, do they sell grades,
an ever more common practice in educational institutions. The
teachers Teo has had, despite being ill-prepared, are good-natured
people whom the community of parents have tried to help. In
comparison with the problems that a friend of mine has had with her
daughter’s technical school, we could not be happier with the moral
environment of our son’s secondary school. According to what my
friend tells me, the exchange of sex between the teenagers and the
teachers has become a common way to get a good grade.
Each test comes with a fee, and few
remain unscathed in the face of the tempting offer of a cell phone
or a pair of
Adidas shoes, in exchange for
outstanding grades.
I have avoided writing about this thorny issue of the
deterioration of the educational system for fear, I confess, that my
child would feel the affects of the opinions of his mother. In the
three years he has been in junior high, I’ve barely slipped in a
couple of criticisms about
the state of the school
infrastructure, but now I can’t take it any more. They will be the
professionals of tomorrow, the doctors who will attend to our bodies
in the operating room, the engineers who will build our houses, the
artists who will feed our souls with their creations; this terrible
educational background puts all of this at risk. We cannot continue
to be satisfied with the fact that at least while our children are
sitting at a desk they are not roaming the streets at the mercy
other risks. Within the walls of the classroom very serious vices
can be developed, permanent ethical deformations, and an incubation
of mediocrity of alarming proportions. No parent should remain
silent about it.
The man entered the small
El Condor bookstore whose shop window faces the wall
that borders the University of Zurich. “I am looking for books
by
Corín Tellado,” he whispered
softly, and I jumped in front of the computer where you typed in
the latest titles coming from Buenos Aires, Madrid or Mexico
City. I detected a Havana accent in his voice, perhaps because
he had spent little time in contact with the Swiss-German
dialect which would eventually give another cadence to his
words. He said he was from the La Vibora neighborhood and that
he needed – desperately – some Spanish magazines similar to
Hello.
María Mariotti, the local owner, approached him to explain
that she didn’t have anything, but it could be ordered from the
distributor. “What titles do you want,” asked the small
half-Peruvian half-Japanese woman. “Anything you can get.
They’re for my mother who lives for them,” he said, trying to
justify his persistent interest in romantic novels. He said that
not having remittances to send to Cuba, every month he tried to
send his family some publications that they could rent to
others. Their start-up business consisted of renting magazines
like
Vanities, or
People, for five Cuban
pesos, to a large community of readers who were eager to have
the latest issues. The clients could keep the magazines for a
week, and then they passed from hand to hand until they fell
apart and had to be taken out of circulation.
A few days after that particular order, my friend left for
the 2003 Barcelona Bookfair, where she offered a tribute to
María del Socorro Tellado López. She managed to approach her and
tell her of the family on the other side of the Atlantic who
survived each month thanks to her pen. The author of Painful
Deception (1990) was impressed with the story and donated a
selection of fifty of her titles, accompanied by a handwritten
letter for the lady in La Vibora. That gift caused a burst of
thanks in the Swiss bookstore, especially from the son of the
alternative librarian. Well he knew what it meant to be able to
add these new volumes to the maternal collection. Their pages
would provide a deteriorating Havana house with more soap, some
oil, a bit of bread, shoes for the children, along with dreams
for dozens of neighbors.
Imagen tomada de: http://telenovelas-carolina-esp.blogspot.com/
They are there to watch and record
us. Dozens, hundreds of cameras scattered throughout the city,
as if it were not enough that there are vans filled with police,
the Committees for the Defense of the Revolution (CDRs) on every
block, and the security forces in their checked shirts. They
have been installed with an efficiency rarely seen in the
execution of any project of public benefit. Their sophisticated
structure is the same on streets where half the houses are on
the verge of falling down, as in the modern tourist enclaves and
on the sumptuous Fifth Avenue. They capture those who
traffic in beef, sell drugs, or
steal a gold chain; but they also monitor those who don’t keep
guns under their beds, but rather opinions in their heads.
When these “fish eyes” began to be installed everywhere, they
generated a sense of paralysis among Havanans. I remember
looking for blind spots where the crystal globes couldn’t see
me. Then I relaxed a little and learned to live with them,
though I still felt the itch on the back of my neck of a person
who knows they are being observed. Among the speculations about
these filming devices is one that they have face-detection
programs – including a data base – that read anthropometric
measurements. But comments of this kind may well belong to the
fantasy catalog generated by everything new.
These public cameras – the embodiment of the Orwellian
“telescreen” – have ushered in a new cinematography. Although
they basically operate automatically, some hands have leaked
their contents to the alternative information networks. Dozens
of images are emerging from
the police archives and
circulating right now, by flash memory. Videos where we see
ourselves committing crimes, surviving, stealing and rebelling.
Minutes of police beatings, car crashes and images of
prostitution between young boys and tourists twice their age.
One is a complete and shocking snuff movie, which for weeks
jumped from one screen to another, from cell phones to DVD
players.
Without intending it,
the police have given us the
crudest testimony they could about our present reality. A
succession of scenes that, no doubt, will be stored in the
visual memory of this country.
After a denial, the majority of
those seeking permission to travel give up going back to ask
again. A few, very few, continue to insist when they’ve heard
the phrase, “You are not authorized to travel,” more than three
times. Only a handful of stubborn ones, among whom I include
myself, return to the Department of Immigration (DIE) to demand
the so-called white card that has been denied on four occasions.
Although with each new request it would seem the possibilities
become more remote, I’m driven to make it clear that my
imprisonment on this Island has been for my not having exhausted
all legal avenues.
Under this philosophy of the impossible I’ve launched another
application in the direction of the Plaza municipality’s DIE,
this time to go to the city of Jequié-Bahia in Brazil. In July
there will be a documentary film festival where a
young filmmaker will present a
short film about Cuban bloggers; if I miss it it will be because
I’ve received the sixth “No” in just two years. As with all
previous applications, the letter of invitation has arrived on
time, my passport is up-to-date and my criminal record is
spotless. In theory, I meet all the existing requirements to
cross the national frontier, but I am still emitting critical
opinions and this turns me into a special kind of criminal.
For this trip I have decided to knock on as many doors as
possible, and have even sent
a letter to the Brazilian president
Luis Inácio Lula da Silva. Who knows if, failing to listen to
the demands of its own citizens, my country’s government has
receptive ears when a foreign dignitary speaks. My friends are
hinting that I have become, at the DIE office, just another
piece of “office
furniture” with the little
metal inventory
tag nailed to my shoulder
blades, like on all the other
furniture in state
institutions. I can only smile at such jokes and shake off the
despair with a nice play on words: “I am going, yes… I am going
to become accustomed to staying.”
Who would have thought, just a few years ago, that the austere
newspaper Granma would open a section that would become
its most read and commented on feature. Under the title, “Letters
to the Editor,” every Friday letters sent by readers
come to light, addressing the economic and organizational
aspects of our society. At first, word spread that the official
organ of the Cuban Communist party would sound out a test-tube
Glasnost which would later be extended to the rest of the press,
but the result has been a limited debate, considering it occurs
in a media with a strong reactionary tendency, resistant to
change.
The temperature of the criticism has been rising, and
in this same newspaper which has never printed a color photo,
they appear today to focus on different nuances of old problems.
There has even been talk of “privatization” and “the end of
subsidies,” all this accompanied by phrases such as “our
stagnant mentality” along with exhortations in the style of “we
must be realists.” So far, it would seen that the controversy
has embedded itself in a publication that has contributed so
much, over the decades, to cutting off debate; but let’s not let
the excitement run away with us. Now in the heading of the
“Letters…” they clarify that it includes “opinions with which
one may or may not agree.” All in a show of tolerance that some
of us who are discriminated against for our opinions know very
well does not reflect anything in real life.
Setting aside the delight, and separating the words that
appear from the facts, one can see the true extent and
seriousness of this space for discussion. It jumps out at you
that there is clearly a limit in terms of topics, because never
in all this time have they touched on hot button issues such as
the travel restrictions, the lack of freedom of expression, the
penalization of those who think differently, the political
prisoners, the demand for direct election of the president, or
the need for a press less intertwined with the apparatus of
governance. Interestingly, the letters appear only to refer to
the diversion of resources, production methods, bureaucratic
inefficiency, and the requests of many to implement stronger
controls. This could be because the opinions are filtered, or
because the readers themselves refrain from writing about
certain issues that they know will never see the light of day.
On the other hand, Friday’s Granma has created the
false impression that criticism is admissible and one can speak
with “no holds barred.” But it’s enough to read it at length to
confirm that there is a compulsory reverence required to be
admitted into the select group of those who can opine. A phrase
must be dropped in relative to “keeping our current system,” or
a note of exoneration extended to “the historical leaders of the
process,” and a sentence added that lays the blame for our
national disaster outside our territory. Never – don’t even
dream about it – could one read in these pages of ancient design
the doubts my compatriots have about the management of Raul
Castro and the dysfunction of
the state capitalism – or the
family clan – under which we live. The Cuba of Saturday,
Tuesday, Sunday – that which overflows with dissatisfaction and
anguish – hardly shows in the “Letters to the Editor.” The organ
of the only party permitted would never disseminate that to
those they don’t consider – even remotely – the vanguard of the
nation. To do so would be as if Saturn, having devoured his
children, started in on his own heart.
The sugar mill reduced to ruins, the
main street desolate, and inside the houses a past encrusted in
memories. “From model town to ghost town,” mutter those living in
the town of
Hersey, Cuba, as the one-time splendor is turned into a redoubt
of nostalgia. Thanks to the talent of various young filmmakers, the
small town in Matanzas is now portrayed in a short documentary that
will bring tears to your eyes and a lump to your throat. A wistful
walk for hundreds of people for whom the future unquestionably did
not end up being a better time.
The unusual town had a modern urban layout, a prosperous sugar
industry, a chocolate factory, and an electric train that still
circulates, screeching and sparking. Everything is on a small scale,
but functional, as if a dozen doll’s houses with gable roofs had
been carefully arranged on the lawn. Thanks to the efforts of Milton
Hersey, who was born in a village in Pennsylvania, construction of
this curious settlement on Santa Cruz hill, east of our capital,
began in 1915.
Yesterday’s prosperity and today’s inertia are the contrasting
chords of the short film directed by Laimir Fano which was screened
in the Chaplin cinema, at a showing where several bloggers were
prevented from entering. Fortunately, its emotional 15 minutes are
already circulating on alternative information distribution
networks, where there is no need to comply with the rules regarding
“right of admission” of certain cultural institutions. A magnificent
collection of images, coupled with adventurous work on the sound and
soundtrack, manage to transport us to that village immersed in
homesickness. The chocolate acts as a trigger for the emotions of
the characters, while the spectators – on this side of the screen –
can feel the aroma and the texture of memory wrapped in the same
paper as the chocolates.
No, you’re not mistaken, the title refers specifically to the
birthday of a slogan, a saying for which they want to light
another candle. On this island the mania to commemorate has
reached the extreme of celebrating the first time somebody said
something. Although we were already drowning in anniversaries,
they have now added to the list of commemorations those related
to the birth of a phrase. They interview those present at the
moment certain verbs and nouns were combined, as if every day
doesn’t see the birth of thousands of expressions that could be
considered. Today, for example, my neighbor – greatly inspired –
said, “It ever ends, in this house it never ends,” which could
become the motto of all the housewives in the country.
In the inventory of expressions they only remember the
positive, because it would never occur to anyone that the news
might dust off the losses, the lies, the missteps. These do not
come down through the years, they are erased from history,
period, while others are remembered. So the official press only
dedicates space these days to praise the appearance of the coda,
“Venceremos!” – We Shall Overcome! – in a motto that
was already quite horrific. For over fifty years the national
impasse was contained in the schematic, “Fatherland or Death.”
Five decades in which we have become accustomed to the stark
reality of having to opt for the Grim Reaper, while on the other
end of the phrase the word “fatherland” could be exchanged for
“socialism,” which could also be substituted by the term “Party”
or by the name of a certain leader.
So it goes here: passing to the plane of the noun, of what is
said but not done. Making a cult of the verb, although reality
denies it every day. That it’s worth blowing up balloons for
slogans, and reminding us they’ve gone grey, though their age
has made them no more venerable nor more true. Even dressed up
for a party, the slogan, “Fatherland or Death: We Shall
Overcome!” still fills me more with anxiety than with peace.
Today, with half a century shared among those four words, they
sound like the echo of times long past, when a whole people came
to believe that choice. After so many repetitions, seeing it
painted on billboards, hearing it from the podium, I’ve come to
wonder if perhaps we have overcome, if what we have today could
be called “victory.”
With every step I hear people complaining about the heat,
whose sticky presence the drought makes even more difficult to
bear. We all know what happens to the pressure inside a boiler
if heat is applied, so problems and tensions are forecast for
the summer. June has started off with the wait for those changes
that pass with an exhausting slowness, with a half-heartedness
that makes things worse. From the first days of the month some
barbers have been permitted to usufruct their workplaces and
have gone from being state employees to paying fixed, and quite
high, taxes. On the one hand, the newly self-employed gain
autonomy, but on the other, the price of a hair cut has soared
to nearly double, now that they have to pay their own expenses,
repay the treasury, and try to earn a little profit for
themselves.
The issue about which everything seems most awkward is the
expected release of the political prisoners, as much discussed
in the foreign press as it is met with total silence in the
national news. It was assumed that these men would already be
out of prison, since Silvio Rodriguez himself has acknowledged
that the sentences were “too harsh.” The transfer of six of them
to prisons closer to their homes has the stench of a stalling
tactic, an official joke in the face of so many expectations.
It’s not enough to ask for transformations to happen. We have to
push for their achievement as soon as possible because, in the
peculiar alchemy of our situation, delay could be an explosive
element.
To top it off we have a summer without rain, with the fans
humming all day and the electric bills eating up our salaries. A
perennial hot flash is felt in the long lines for the buses, a
suffocation that accompanies us in the laborious search to find
food. Fans that only manage to blow the hot air on our faces,
baths with just a splash of water from a pitcher and bucket; as
soon as you’re done the drops of sweat reappear on your skin.
There are days when my friends lose patience and look among the
family papers to see if they can find the birth certificate of a
Spanish grandparent.* In the eyes of many is the unspoken
sentence, “I can’t take any more.” Relax, I tell them, maybe the
heat is the catalyst we have been lacking, the push we need for
a lethargic population to demand that the promised openings are
not delayed another month.
Translator’s notes:
Barber shops and usufruct: Small barbershops and beauty salons
have been turned over to the employees in usufruct, meaning they
must pay
the state to use its property,
the establishments themselves.
Spanish grandparent: Spain recently passed a law that allows any
Cuban with a Spanish grandparent to claim Spanish citizenship.
The same thing is happening with the blogosphere as happens with
other phenomena of our reality: they try to divide and separate us,
throwing out epithets of “pro-government” here and “mercenaries”
there, failing to realize that a common factor unites us all: the
desire to express ourselves. I dream of the time when
Elaine Diaz can come and give a class at the Blogger Academy
without losing her job, and when
Claudia Cadelo — spared from a repudiation rally — gives a
seminar in
Twitter at the Journalism
School. I imagine the discussion table where independent journalist
sit together with those affiliated with
the state media, if the first
would have their very existence recognized and the second would not
pay, with their jobs, for such a gesture.
Can you imagine Esteban Morales, the academic who some weeks ago
wrote an article against
corruption debating with
Oscar Espinosa Chepe how to find solutions to the Cuban economic
catastrophe? Think for a minute if Alfredo Guevara himself, who gave
a
lecture to university students, sat on a panel discussion next
to
Rafael Rojas or
Emilio Ichikawa. Or I could go even further and place Ricardo
Alarcon face-to-face once more with the young man Eliecer Avila to
hear how the national situation has advanced — or regressed — since
January 2008 when they had their famous
dialog. All of this — I’m starting to become delirious — could
be enlivened by a song from Pablo Milanes with a montuno
refrain in the warm voice of Albita Rodriguez.
You will think I’m delusional, but I feel that this slice of land
we inhabit cannot tolerate too many divisions. Grids, fences,
parcels, fractions, have ended up jeopardizing and marking a space
and time that belongs to all of us. I don’t know what others are
waiting for, but at least Yoani Sanchez has put the coffee pot on
and set the table for a conversation that must start somewhere.
The TV buzzes in the room but nobody’s watching it. They
leave it on for hours, ignoring it, like some scatterbrained
family member. On the schedule it shows that in half an hour the
crime show CSI will start, followed a little later by
another very similar show called Jordan Forense. To
relax a bit, on channel 21 there are the nice characters of
Friends and a midnight movie made in the studios of 20th
Century Fox. The young girl of the house doesn’t want to miss
another episode of the Gilmore Girls, but dad
fights for tuning into a Discovery Channel show about sharks. In
the early morning, when the only ones awake are the guards, the
thieves and the cats, they might show a rerun of the last season
of Doctor House.
Our small screen has two distinctive marks: the extreme
ideology of certain spaces, and the abundance of material stolen
from foreign producers. A peculiar combination of fiery
anti-imperialist discourse coexists with the constant broadcast
of productions made in the country to the North. Films released
just a few weeks ago to American audiences are broadcast here
without paying a penny of royalties. Of course we, the audience,
benefit from the rush of the Institute of Cuban Radio and
Television (ICRT) to take from afar, but it leaves a bitter
taste as we know that without this contraband we could not
sustain our television programming.
To ease the hole into which local programming has fallen,
especially the serials, soaps or participation programs, they
take foreign labor while almost never compensating the creators
or distributors. When pillage is institutionalized ,the calls
for people to stop diverting state resources lose force; we can
simply tune into a channel and see for ourselves proof of
large-scale theft. To make matters worse, in an effort to hide
their guilt, they place a dark band over the logo of
the original station that aired
the program, making the theft even more obvious. Often, on
Saturday nights, they show films shot from the screen of a movie
theater, where in the middle of the action it looks like someone
from the audience got up to go to the bathroom, which prevents
us from reading part of the dialog. The subtitles are made by an
amateur, full of spelling errors – typical of copies downloaded
from the Internet – you can even see it on programs of rather
serious debate about cinematography.
What will happen if, in the near future, the country can’t
continue behaving like a privateer, with no ethics in regards to
the artistic creations of others? Are the ICRT officials already
planning how to satisfy our appetites for TV without resorting
to piracy? The solution, apparently, is to encourage national
production, to let the TV generate revenues that will result in
its improvement and in the ability to acquire broadcast rights.
This latter might be incompatible with long hours of ideological
discourse, with boring programs that no one likes but that they
administer to us like an obligatory dose of indoctrination.
Dynamic programming, attractive and within the framework of the
law can’t be done from within the total nationalization of our
media. Can’t they see that?
Several years ago I met a young woman about to travel outside
the country for the first time. She had so many doubts about
what she would find on the other side that she asked those who
had already “crossed the pond” about even the smallest details.
She wanted to know if she should take a coat or short sleeved
clothes for the summer in Europe and if, with her slight
knowledge of English, she would be able to be understood. She
inquired about names, places and even flavors, as one of her
principle fears centered around whether she would like the food
over there. She feared, basically, that she would not find on
her plate the rice and beans she was used to eating every day.
When she confessed this to me I wanted to laugh, but then I
realized the awkward situation that a break in her dietary
routine represented for her. Since childhood she’d been
accustomed to that Creole combination and the thought of finding
herself in front of a plate of vegetables seemed like a
sacrilege. She was worried about having to eat just broccoli or
spinach, as she had seen in some movies, and about going for
more than a month without black beans and rice, which we call
“Moors and Christians.” Her distrust reached the point to where
she boarded the plane with her luggage loaded up with several
pounds of her inseparable legumes and daily grain. She never
returned from that trip because she settled in Northern Italy,
apparently finding herself
enchanted with the flavor of the
place.
The impoverishment of our culinary culture, due to the
chronic crisis in which we live, has gotten to the point where
our palates experience barely a dozen flavors. The “proteins”
that show up on Cuban plates are those contained in a hot dog, a
slice of turkey hash, or a piece of beef liver. These products
have the most affordable prices at the convertible peso stores
and are imported, for the most part, from the country to the
north so often mentioned in political slogans. Even pork has
become unattainable and, in my neighborhood, when eggs are for
sale there’s a joy as if it were the advent of the Three Wise
Men themselves. The repetitive mix of rice and beans is also
disappearing due to agricultural disaster, drought, and the
dysfunctional nationalization of our fields. Now we have to fork
over double and even triple the cash to enjoy that congrí
— black beans and rice — for which my friend was about to abort
her trip to Europe.
Thousands of Havanans travel through
the force of their thumbs or, and it amounts to the same
thing, by asking drivers at traffic lights to please
take them. Most of these “alternative mode” travelers
are young women, since it is easier to get a ride if
you’re wearing a skirt — if it’s a short one, even
better — than if you are male or an elderly woman. At
the intersection of two avenues they can be seen leaning
into the windows to ask where the car is going and if
they can ride along for a stretch. The drivers often lie
because they don’t want strangers getting into their
cars, so they say they’re only going another hundred
yards or that they’re about to make a U-turn.
A nice catalog could be made of all
the excuses regular hitchhikers hear from those who
don’t want to help them. Through the steering wheel a
voice warns that “the tires are almost flat and can’t
bear the weight of another person,” or that they must
“pick up the boss who lives a few blocks ahead.” There
are also those who don dark glasses before coming to the
corners where many are waiting for a lift, or they turn
up the volume on the radio so as not to hear the pleas
from the sidewalk. It’s the same whether it’s a state or
private license plate, the “no” becomes a constant
response from the vehicle interiors towards those of us
scorching under our “eternal summer” sun.
Also laughable, or terrifying, are the
tales of brazenness and innuendo that drivers — from
their position of power — launch against the grateful
women who manage to catch a ride. Ranging from sharp
glances to the thighs or adjusting the rearview mirror
to reflect the crotch area, up to lascivious touches
collected as if they were a toll. Chastened by this
practice, many prefer to walk long distances rather than
fall into the clutches of those who believe that helping
us gives them the right to engage us in their
impertinence. What a welcome difference are those
drivers who say “yes” and ask for nothing in exchange,
not even a phone number. Thanks to them part of this
city manages to move every day, with the staccato rhythm
defined by chance and the brevity of the red lights.
The building where I live just turned
25, having been built by the hands of the people who
lived here, back then. With its huge concrete frame and
Yugoslavian architecture, this fourteen-story block was
the last one completed under the supervision of Soviet
technicians. A new concept called “microbrigades” —
during the seventies and eighties — allowed people in
need of house to build it for themselves. Those were the
days of illusions and many came to believe that these
buildings of twelve, eighteen and twenty stories would
solve the country’s housing problem.
There were so many needs, however, and
construction progressed so slowly, that the new Eastern
European style neighborhoods could not solve the housing
crisis. When the first tenants moved in here — after
seven years of laying bricks and pouring cement — we
became the last beneficiaries of an urban project that
came to an end with the dismemberment of the socialist
camp. There would be no return to the raising of tall
buildings, and even the Ministry of Construction became
an archive of plans postponed and architectural dreams
aborted. Those still stretched for space had to be
satisfied with dividing rooms or building makeshift
apartments on the roofs.
Among the 144 families who live
together in this building, the children grew up, along
came the grandchildren, and where there was once room
for a couple and their offspring, now sons, daughters
and mothers-in-law squeeze in together. Unfortunately,
the rigid structure of the building doesn’t allow for
extending the balconies, nor for making the horizontal
divisions we call “barbecues,” but creativity has
managed to make two rooms where once there was one.
These “skyscrapers” have finally become a symbol of a
bygone era, and the children who run along their
hallways barely know that they were intended to be the
bright and colorful homes where the “New Man” — a
creature they never managed to create — would live.
I braid my hair. Nothing is being
celebrated today, better I should leave it tangled and
dull, but I divide it into three strands that intertwine
following a certain logic. The liturgy of combing calms
my anxiety and in the end my head is orderly, while the
world remains unruly. I’ve lived through a weekend of
vertigo and thought that the ritual of untangling the
knots and reducing them to a thin braid would manage to
calm my nerves, but it didn’t work.
On Friday they pronounced my name on
the boring Roundtable program, mixed with
concepts such as “cyber-terrorism,” “cyber-commandos”
and “media war.” To be mentioned in a negative way in
the most official program on television is, for any
Cuban, the confirmation of her social death. A public
stoning that consists of insults directed at someone who
has critical ideas, without allowing her a few minutes
of the right to reply. My friends called, alarmed,
afraid that my house was already full of those men who
dig under mattresses and look behind pictures. I
answered the phone, however, with my most jovial tone,
“Tell me who denigrates you and I’ll tell you who you
are,” I repeated to those who were worried. If you are
insulted by the mediocre, the opportunists, if you are
slandered by the employees of the powerful but dying
machinery, take it as a compliment… I muttered like a
mantra all night long.
The following day, the reality remains
the denial of the official discourse and my neighbors,
running after the always evasive rice, haven’t had the
time nor the inclination to watch such tedious staging
on television. What is happening in this reality where
the “media executions” don’t work any more? A few years
ago, government bullets of contempt would have made
everyone stay away from my person and my house, but now
they sidle up and give me a wink and a thumbs up as a
sign of complicity. They have used defamation so much as
a method to silence the other, that their incendiary
adjectives have ceased to have any effect on a
population sick and tired of so many slogans and so few
results.
The healing balm arrived the same
Saturday. An Argentinian sneaked the trophy of my
premio Perfil
into the country, and almost in unison a Chilean managed
to get the Spanish edition of my book
Cuba Libre
through customs, wrapped in pink paper.Mayo 24th, 2010 |
Category:
Generation Y |
82 comments
The voice on the other end of the line dictates a
text that will be published in the blog
Voices Behind the Bars.
It is Pedro Argüelles from the Canaleta prison and we
talk about the current conversations between the Church
and the Cuban government. A difficult issue to talk
about with a prisoner for whom over optimistic phrases
would feed an expectation that could lead to
frustration. I have little information, I confess, the
official media only shows brief images of the meeting
between Cardinal Jaime Ortego and General Raul Castro,
without revealing the agenda points they discussed. But,
I venture to tell him, in the streets rumor has it that
the meetings are about the negotiations for the release
of the political prisoners, which has been confirmed by
the church authorities in a press conference where
independent journalists and bloggers were not invited.
On the one hand the issue excites me
and on the other it leaves a bad taste in my mouth. It
is like being in the presence of a table that tries to
stand on two legs, while the third – excluded or ignored
– would bear most of the weight of the decisions. There
is limited discussion with that very important part of
the nation not called to meet: civil society groups and
associations. Something that is the responsibility of
military and citizens, Catholics and atheists, party
supporters and dissidents, should not be discussed only
among those in uniform or cardinal’s robes. Conspicuous
by their absence in these meetings are the spokespeople
of the injured people of Cuba, who have sons, husbands
and fathers condemned for political reasons. How can you
intercede for the injured without giving them, also, a
chance to express themselves, without allowing them to
be represented there, where their fate is being spoken
of.
Pedro, Pablo and Adolfo call me again.
I don’t know what to say about the meetings taking place
behind closed doors, about deals shrouded in mystery. I
desire so much that their names will be on the list of
those possibly favored with parole that I let myself be
carried away by hope. But make no mistake. While free
opinion and the exercises of it continue to be
criminalized in our penal code, there will be a list of
inmates to be freed from their cells. The efforts of the
Catholic church as mediator are welcome, although the
Cuban authorities should listen to all its citizens,
even those who oppose it. Going through life
disqualifying for dialog anyone with critical positions
has left us, today, with a table with only two
supporting legs. Several legs could give it equilibrium
and diversity, they only need to recognize it and let
them exist.
I was 19 and
he had died a hundred years earlier. At school we were
terrified when the grammar tests asked us to analyze his
complex sentences. It was repeated so many times that
Jose Marti was the “intellectual author of the assault
on the Moncada barracks,” that we even imagined his
body’s presence on that morning of shooting and killing.
On the political billboards his sayings – taken out of
context – adorned a city submerged in the miseries of
the Special Period.* I remember we sarcastically
transformed some of them: “poverty happens: what does
not happen is disgrace,” we changed to, “poverty
happens, what does not happen is the 174,” referring to
the bus route connecting Vedado with La Vibora.
There was no shortage of the dis-informed
who blamed the Apostle for what was happening, and
during the days of blackouts and very little food they
visited various punishments on his plaster busts. The
excessive distortion of Marti’s ideas – repackaged
according to the convenience of the powers-that-be – led
dozens of my classmates to reject his work once and for
all. Only a small group of us continued to read his love
poems and free verse, preserving for ourselves another
Pepe, more human, closer. I was then at the Pedagogical
Institute, a springboard that would allow me to major in
Philology or Journalism, two profession he had engaged
in brilliantly. As presented to me there, he was a
gentleman with an energetic face who must be
unquestionably worshiped, officially defined as the
inspiration for what we lived.
In the days leading up to the one
hundredth anniversary of his death it occurred to me to
write a small editorial for the newsletter prepared by
several of us students. With the title Letter by
Letter, the publication was filled with poems,
literary analysis, and a section dedicated to the
language mistakes we heard in the corridors of the
Spanish and Literature Department. I wrote some brief
and passionate lines where I said that we formed part of
“another hundred-year generation” that would do our part
to save the country from other dangers. That tiny
violation of the established norms for interpreting the
national hero ended with the closing of the modest
periodical and my first encounter with the boys of the
apparatus. Only they had the capacity to decipher and
wield his writings, they seemed to want to tell me with
that veiled warning, but I smiled through clenched
teeth: I knew another Marti, more unmanageable, more
rebellious.
Translator’s note:
*The Special Period:The very difficult time in the 1990s
after the fall of the Soviet Union and the end of its
subsidies for Cuba.
The Tenth
Congress of the National Small Farmers Association
concluded yesterday at a very critical time for the
Cuban agricultural sector. While on TV they broadcast
the long sessions of a closed-door meeting, in our homes
the worry continues about how to find and pay for what
we put on our plates. Rice, the daily companion on our
tables – indispensable for many, boring for others – is
the latest product to be added to the scarcity list. In
a country where most people feel they haven’t eaten if
they don’t have at least a few spoonfuls of this grain,
its absence becomes a source of despair and cause for
alarm.
After so many calls for efficiency,
the announcement – with great fanfare – of the
distribution of vacant land, and speeches sprinkled with
calls to work on the farms, the current result is that
in the last year agricultural production fell by
13% and livestock production by
3.1%. Clearly slogans and platitudes in the
style of “beans are more important than guns” or “we
need a complete turnaround for the land,” don’t
translate into food. So what is happening? How is it
possible that an island covered in fertile soil is full
of people anxiously waiting for a few malangas, some
bananas, some yuccas. Why has pork become a delicacy
that we can only enjoy once or twice a month at an
exorbitant and abusive price. How have they managed to
relegate many of our tastiest fruits to plates in an
album of things that are extinct. Nationalization,
control and centralization have led us here and I’m
afraid that we are now trying to dig ourselves out of
the hole with the same methods that put us in it.
The solutions will not come because a
call comes from a military uniform for maximum sacrifice
and sowing the earth “for the fatherland.” Nor will it
emerge from a conference led by those who, for a long
time now, have not bent their backs even to weed the
earth. I hope to read in the final report of this
agricultural event the will to actually put an end to
all the absurd restrictions. Given the gravity of the
food situation I thought they were going to stop
demonizing and criminalizing the middleman, without whom
boxes of tomatoes will not reach the market. We will
glimpse the solution to the lack of productivity when
they tell us that the farmers can sell their all their
products directly to the population – yes, paying taxes
of course – but without going through the “droit de
seigneur” imposed on them by the State. If they are
not allowed to freely buy agricultural implements, to
decide what crops to plant, and how to invest the money
they earn from their sales, all that will remain will be
the minutes of the conference – one more held without
major effects on the furrows or on our plates.
On the corner there is a hydrant which, at night, turns into the water supply for hundreds of families in the area. Even the watercarriers come to it, with their 55 gallon tanks on rickety old carts that clatter as they roll by. People wait for the thin stream to fill their containers and then return home, with help from their children to push the wagon with the precious liquid. Every two days these inhabitants of Central Havana make the water run, tired of waiting for the pipes in their bathrooms and kitchens to bring them something other than noise and cockroaches. They live in dilapidated tenements in the old mansions with ornamented walls and mold in the ceilings. It doesn’t matter what the state of the housing is, or whether it’s the rainy season or a drought, the problem lies under the ground, in the water mains that are as old and worn out as their grandparents.
Many of the residents who rent rooms to foreigners have installed motors known as “water thiefs.” At night they turn them on and they pump the water that should supply the nearby houses into their own water tanks; it’s the only way to guarantee that the tourist guests can take a shower. If a break in the water main is announced, then they pay someone to lug several buckets from the nearest street, or buy the contents of a water truck for the equivalent of a monthly salary. Access to drinking water has been, for many years in numerous Havana neighborhoods, a question of purchasing power. Those who have more can open the tap and let it run while they wash their hands; those who have less rinse their mouths with the contents of a jar.
I still remember how annoyed my grandmother was when I told her I couldn’t take it anymore, having to use the bathroom when there was nothing to flush with. Then we had to pull up the bucket on a rope from the floor below, helped by a pulley installed years before on the balcony. This up-and-down ritual has continued to multiply until it has become standard practice for thousands of families. In their busy daily routine they set aside a time to look for water, load it and carry it, knowing that they cannot trust what comes out of the taps.
The creak of the wheels has a different sound, when the tanks are full versus empty. On some street in my city – right now – a pair of arms is hauling a loaded cart home. The dirty dishes, the rice to be cooked, the clothes in the laundry, are waiting for her.
A few days ago, the Internet once again gave me a couple of pleasant surprises. I was in the middle of the process to try to travel out of Cuba when my phone rang and a voice with a Madrid accent asked if we could plan to meet. I didn’t know who the man was because the noise of a passing truck kept me from hearing him when he introduced himself. But I confirmed that at 4:30 there would be coffee waiting for him and his friends on the 14th floor of this mass of concrete. Half an hour later I received a text message from a commentator on Generation Y, telling me that the digital forums had already published news of Rosa Díez’s visit to my house. So I was able to complete the puzzle of who had just made that unintelligible call and pointed out to Reinaldo, with amusement, “Our real life is running a few hours late with respect to our virtual existence.”
Finally, the prediction that appeared on the web came true, and the spokeswoman for the Spanish political party, the Progressive and Democratic Union, knocked on my door. We talked like old acquaintances, like people who have retraced their steps and met at a bend in the road to share stories of the stones, the hollows, the sunsets. We exchanged energy because, believe me, this slight woman exudes an enthusiasm I’ve only seen in the very young. The principle subject was Cuba, this Island where there is physical space for everyone, but which they would like to convert into an exclusive space for those who embrace an ideology. I told her about my apprehensions, but there was also time to detail my hopes and to enumerate the positive forecasts. She, for her part, listened to us without proselytizing.
Before leaving, Rosa took her iPhone and in the browser wrote the URL for the Progressive and Democratic Union. On the brilliant screen appeared a modern site, highlighted in magenta, that is updated almost daily. Between the walls of this house, that had heard dozens of Cubans talk of the Internet as if it were a mythical and difficult to reach place, this little technological gadget gave us a piece of cyberspace. We, who throughout the Blogger Academy, work on a local server that simulates the web, were suddenly able to feel the kilobytes run across the palms of our hands. I had the desperate desire to grab Rosa Díez’s iPhone and run off with it to hide in my room and surf all the sites blocked on the national networks. For a second, I wanted to keep it so I could enter my own blog, which is still censored in the hotels and cybercafés. But I returned it, a bit disconsolate I confess.
For a while on that Monday, the little flag on the door of my apartment asking for “Internet for Everyone” did not seem so unrealistic. A tireless little weaver-spider called Rosa had shown us the most slender strand of the great World Wide Web.
A friend called my attention to the strange colored dots on the bottoms of the cans of soft drinks and beer sold in cafes and restaurants. I looked closer and it was true, the mark was red on some, blue or green on others, all drawn with a marker. I looked around and even on the empty or half-crushed cans at the recycling center the curious “seal” was on a good share of them. The contours were not as precise as from a labeling machine, but rather showed the unsteady stroke of a hand that is doing something forbidden.
Well yes, although it might sound simple, behind this colored dot lies a lucrative network that uses the State enterprises to sell private goods. The food service employees buy the canned drinks in hard currency stores, and then sell them – in the businesses where they work – getting a mark-up on each one of between 10% and 50% over the initial price. During the working day they give priority to the sale of their “own” products, while setting aside or delaying the sale of those from the State. At the end of the day, with the added centavos from each sale, they accrue dividends much greater than the symbolic salary they receive in the national currency.
So the colored dots indicate who owns the drinks that have been sold. Those of the local administrator might be marked in red, the waitress’s marked in blue, and the cook probably decided to opt for an orange dot. Everyone gets a share. If not, what would be the point of having to get up early, ride a packed bus, and work eight hours just to get the equivalent of $20 US dollars at the end of the month. Also, clandestine factories produce Bucanero and Cristal beers with the same appearance as the originals and even long time drinkers can barely tell the difference. These knock-off industries are located in what looks like family homes, in whose rooms a canning device snaps on the lids. These products will displace those produced by the State, with those made by the most disloyal of competitors to this great Patrón, and will also rip off a good share of its customers. A labyrinthine network of counterfeiting and resale that undermines the dysfunctional centralization and diverts profits to thousands of private pockets.
Today I woke up to the noise of the loudspeakers shouting slogans and the horns of the buses that would be taking thousands of the May Day demonstration participants back to their provinces. The parade had been announced for weeks in all the official media, as “a dignified response to media campaign” against the Cuban government. In the workplaces everyone had to put in writing their commitment to attend, to not absent themselves from their date “with the Fatherland.” Many high school and technical school students slept at their schools last night, to be brought, very early, to the Plaza of the Revolution, since nothing could be left to chance in this coming together for the workers’ day. Curiously, no banners were seen calling for better wages nor criticizing the radical downsizing currently taking place.
The whole day I kept remembering Baby and Pablito who, in previous years, waved their little paper flags in that enormous architectural complex where human beings look so tiny, so anonymous. I recall they went in their red T-shirts and before leaving the neighborhood they knocked on everyone’s doors so no one could evade their responsibilities to the Revolution. It was, in fact, in the living room of their house where they had that book that 8,013,966 Cubans had to sign to make socialism irreversible.* The illegal vendors avoided calling at their door and the neighbors – when speaking of the couple – touched their index and middle fingers to their shoulders, a sign that in Cuba indicates someone belongs to the ranks of the Military or the Ministry of the Interior.
Just a few months ago we learned that the activist couple had emigrated to the United States, having won places in the visa lottery of that country. She handed in her CDR vigilance card, and he turned over his Communist Party card at a meeting where everyone was left with their mouths hanging open at the news. They started to publicly buy milk and eggs on the black market and a few days before leaving they gave away some of their clothes, including the brightly colored get ups they used to march in. They boarded the plane and left behind the skins – or masks – that they had raised high for so many long years. Now, from Hialeah, they follow the alternative Cuban blogosphere, are alarmed at what is happening to the Ladies in White, and speak not with veneration, but with irritation, about our leaders.
Their unconditional ideology was as brief as the color on the paper signs they left behind on the ground of the plaza, which were drenched by the determined downpour of the first day of May.
*In June 2002, the Cuban government – violating all the requirements established by law for a referendum – had the population sign a constitutional modification that made the socialist system irreversible. Popular and academic slang called it “the constitutional mummification.”
He had repaired all types of books, from Bibles to incunabula with pages on the point of turning to dust. He was very good at returning to their places torn-out pages, repairing covers, and spraying them with a chemical solution that made the ink stand out. Through his hands had passed nineteenth century manuscripts, first editions of the works of José Martí and even a couple of copies of the Constitution of 1940. To all of them he returned the elegance they had once had, and on salvaging them he read them, like the doctor who wants a peek into the soul of a patient whose viscera he already knows well.
He had never seen a book, however, like that brought to him that afternoon in the late eighties. By its size and thickness it seemed to be the pharmacological recipe book of a dispensary, but it didn’t contain chemical formulas nor the names of medicines, but instead it was full of accusations. It was the detailed inventory of all the reports that the employees of a company had made against their colleagues. Without realizing her indiscretion, the director’s secretary sent it to be repaired – this register of complaints – with its worn cover and several torn out pages. Thus, it came into the hands of the persistent librarian, that invaluable testimony, on paper, of the betrayals.
As in the plot of Dangerous Liaisons, in one part it could be read that Alberto, the chief of personnel, had been accused of taking raw material for his house. A few pages later it was the denounced himself who was relaying the “counterrevolutionary” expressions used by the cleaning assistant in the dining room. The murmurs overlapped, weaving a real and abominable box where everyone spied on everyone. Maricusa, the accountant – as witnessed by her office mate – was selling cigars at retail from her desk, but when she wasn’t involved in this illegal work she turned her attention to reporting that the administrator left some hours before closing. The mechanic appeared several times, mentioned for having extramarital relations with a woman in the union, while several reports against the cook were signed in his own hand.
On concluding the reading, one could only sense an enormous pain for these “characters” forced to act out a sinister and disloyal plot. So the restorer returned the book to the fray, after having done the worst job his hands had ever executed. Even today, he can’t stop thinking about the names, reports and accusations that those pages have continued to accumulate all these years.
With a tight sweater and gel-smeared hair, he offers his body for only twenty convertible pesos a night. His face, with its high cheekbones and slanted eyes, is common among those from the East of the country. He constantly moves his arms, a mixture of lasciviousness and innocence that at times provokes pity, at others desire. He is a part of the vast group of Cubans who earn a living from the sweat of their pelvis, who market their sex to foreigners and locals. An industry of quick love and brief caresses, that has grown considerably on this Island in the last twenty years.
Havana has the air of a brothel at times, particularly if you pass through Monte Street where it meets Cienfuegos. Young women in their flashy – if a little faded – clothes offer their “merchandise,” especially after night falls and the spandex doesn’t look quite as baggy nor the circles under their eyes quite as dark. These are the ones who can’t compete with those who can snag a manager or a tourist to take them to a hotel and offer them, the next morning, a breakfast that comes with milk. These are the ones who don’t wear perfume and who finish their work in the cramped quarters of a solar or even on the landing under the stairs. They traffic in groans, exchanging spasms for money.
These men and women – merchants of desire – avoid tripping over the uniformed police who guard the area. Falling into their hands can mean a night in a cell or, for those in the city illegally, deportation to your home province. Everything can be “resolved” if the officer accepts the hint of a probing thigh and agrees to withhold an official warning in exchange for a few minutes of privacy. Some officers return regularly to take their cut, in money or in services, that allows these nocturnal beings to continue taking up their positions on the corner. A woman who refuses the exchange can find herself in a prostitute reeducation camp, while the men might be charged with the crime of pre-criminal dangerousness.
And so the cycle of sex for money comes full circle, in a city where honest work is a museum relic and the needs bring many to position their bodies and swing their hips in hopes of an offer.
What a long road it was that led me from little Pioneer guarding the ballot boxes, to the adult with several years of abstentions on her record. In our school uniforms, my sister and I went on suffrage Sundays to perform our martial salutes every time someone put their ballot in the slot. I remember at least three reasons for participating in those elections: we still believed in the power of the people; It was impossible to say “no” when the teacher – with all her authority – summoned us; and, in addition, in those days they distributed very tasty bread and cheese. No wait, to be honest I forgot one, because they also gave us fruit juice, in wax containers, which was otherwise impossible to get in the midst of so much rationing.
With the coming of the nineties, many of those children who had been guardians of the elections evolved into young people who annulled their ballots with statements in between exclamation marks. I remember the first time I entered the wooden booth and I was ready to deface the piece of paper where they had put a “vote for all.” A neighbor warned me not to even think about writing a slogan in place of the docile X next to the names, because each ballot had an identification number. “They will know it was you,” he warned me, and related stories of people reprimanded for having done something similar. But there are certain moments in life when any scolding or punishment doesn’t matter.
Later, on reviewing the number of friends and family who had invalidated their ballots, it didn’t correspond proportionally to the figures given on TV. Either those who claimed to have marked graffiti instead of giving consent lied, or it was the official statistic that didn’t match reality. Thus, I went from the second phase, boredom, to the position of those who have completely lost confidence in the process of selecting a candidate for the People’s Power. So now I stay home every election Sunday. I don’t know if they still distribute bread and cheese to the children who guard the ballot boxes, but they are still sending them to knock on the doors of the defaulters, to ask them to go to the polling station. Perhaps, all things being equal, some of them will turn 16 and take the red pen to scribble on their ballot, or adopt – as I have – abstention as a form of protest.
* Slogan expressed by Fidel Castro during the first year of the Revolution in response to those calling for presidential elections in the country.
Last night I was visited by a friend who lives in Las Villas who, to reach the capital, must overcome the transportation problems as well as the circle of vigilance that surrounds him. He told me that a few weeks ago he was detained and they confiscated his mobile phone for a couple of hours, until an officer appeared, annoyed, with the small Nokia in his hands. “Now you’re in trouble,” said the State Security officer holding him at the station, over and over. The reason for such alarm was that his phone’s address book included an entry for Twitter, accompanied by a number in the UK.*
“No one can save you from fifteen years,” threatened the officer, while asserting that sending an SMS to someone with such a strange name who lived so far away was a crime of enormous proportions. He didn’t know that our tweets travel to cyberspace through the rough sending of text-only messages by way of cellphones. Nor could he imagine that instead of ending up in the hands of a member of the British intelligence services, our brief texts go to this blue bird that makes them fly through cyberspace. It is true that we broadcast blindly and that we cannot read our readers’ replies or references, but at least we are reporting on the Island in 140 character fragments.
Always thinking in terms of conspiracies, agents and plots, they haven’t noticed that the technologies have turned every citizen into his or her own mass media. It is no longer foreign correspondents who validate a given story in the eyes of the world, but rather, increasingly, it is our own forays on Twitter that are turned into informative references. My friend recounted it in his own way, “Yoani, when we were coming to Havana we had a big operation behind us. I drafted a text message in advance to alert people if they stopped us.” Maybe it was the brightness of the Nokia display or the conviction that something new would intervene between pursued and pursuer that stopped them from putting him in a patrol car. If they had intercepted him, a brief click of a key would have sent his shout across the Web, telling what the international press would have taken hours to find out.
As I saw him off at the door he had his cellphone in his hand, like a dimly lit lantern. In the folder marked “drafts” an already prepared text would protect him from the shadows that awaited him below.
* Among the services offered by Twitter, is the ability to post via SMS for those who do not have Internet access. Everything is done through a service number for sending messages that will appear immediately on the user’s account.
Attentive eyes, eardrums tuned to the elusive sound of the diversion of resources, and brown, almost earth-colored, uniforms. They are the “carmelitas,” a veritable army of inspectors who keep watch so that theft will not take the little we have left. They function as a protective body, not subordinate to the administration of the workplace where they are assigned; they answer, like soldiers, to a higher structure of command and control. In exchange, they earn a higher salary, several pounds of chicken every month, and an appetizing snack which they resell on the black market. They are the new army of auditors, in a country where the employees don’t measure themselves by what they earn, but by what they are allowed to pilfer to sell on the black market.
These controllers stay just a short time in each industry, to avoid their developing relationships with the employees and falling into the chain of corruption. In the cigar factories they must search the rollers so that they don’t sneak out leaves or cigars under their clothes; in the Suchel Plant in the municipality of Cerro they look through workers’ pockets for shampoo or perfume extracts; in the middle of the road they check every passenger on the bus to make sure they have a legal ticket; and at the Río Zaza company they had to prevent sacs of milk or tomato puree from walking out. Trained to check seals, close locks, and make a record of the products in a warehouse, they still haven’t managed to stop the constant embezzlement. It seems that the task of creating pockets of efficiency and control is impossible on an Island where looting the State is a means of survival.
The point is that the government knows that people steal from every workplace, but they also understand that closing all the conduits of this ransacking would create a climate of great social tension. Until now, the blind eye turned toward this pilfering was a way to maintain calm among the offenders so they would not demonstrate their discontent in other, more public, ways. The majority of citizens are aware of what they applaud or keep quiet about, to avoid any investigation into their own lives and bringing to light the illegal sustenance that feeds their family. For years this permissiveness toward embezzlement has been an efficient medium of exchange for passivity, hence the difficulty of eradicating it without dynamiting the system itself. The “carmelitas” will not be able to prevent the continued siphoning off of resources, because corruption is the sap that feeds, fundamentally, those who today send the army of auditors into the streets.
Caridad could not find Sancti Spíritus on a map, the province where the company run by the Chilean, Max Marambio, is located, but she is aware of all the rumors about its closing and the corruption scandals. She has learned to decipher the omissions of the press and to read, in the repetition of certain topics, an attempt to cover up others more interesting. So she is not content with the sugar-coated pill offered by the national news. For this 40-year-old Havana woman, the rumors on the street in the last weeks have caused her to dust off an old saying she stubbornly repeats: “Where there’s smoke, there’s fire.” Just the name of the Río Zaza factory reverberates in conversations, although the newspaper Granma only mentioned the investigation in a brief note about the death of its general manager, Roberto Baudrand.
In the journalism schools they should teach certain lessons. One of them – which we Cubans have learned forcefully reading between the lines – is that hiding a story intensifies the interest in it and leads people to fantasize and speculate about the details. While they call us to attend acts of Revolutionary reaffirmation and to condemn the media campaign against Cuba – from which they have not published a single document – everyone assumes there must be something big that they want to cover up with so much noise. The delay in confirming that something happened in this joint-venture company has made the foreign press, the independent journalists and the bloggers grab the topic from the hands of the controlled official reporters. They are called on to sing of the glories, not to reveal the trash swept under the rug.
Caridad has been right about the wisps of smoke, which have become a roaring fire. Something quite fetid is hidden behind the silence and distraction. It smells like greenbacks, embezzlement, and has the stench of corruption, no longer localized in one place but rather endemic to the system. The army of accountants that will be unveiled in the coming days will not be able to stop the bleeding. They would need as many more to control the inspectors, to monitor the monitors, to supervise the supervisors. The cloud of smoke billowing from this fire is already huge, and we can all see it behind the slogans.
I don’t enjoy going through life defending myself against attacks, perhaps because I have spent most of it in the crossfire of criticism. I’ve learned that at times it is better to digest the insult and move on, because denigration sullies the one who does it more than the victim. Everything, however, has its limits. It is a very different thing to put words in my mouth that I did not say, as has happened with the interview published by Salim Lamrani in Rebelión. As I started to read it I didn’t note much distortion, but by the second part I couldn’t recognize myself. It’s true that in the introduction he tries to generate an aversion for me in his readers, but it is the right of any interviewer to describe how he sees the object of his questions.
The big surprise has been noted, in the way in which he presents the text: enormous omissions, distortions and even invented phrases attributed to me. It would have been just another attempt, among many thousands, to attribute to me positions I don’t share and declarations I never made, if it weren’t for the fact that the official Cuban media was prepared to quickly echo the rearranged interview. Yesterday, when I saw the presenter of the most boring program on official television refer, without ever mentioning my name, to a series of questions that had “stripped me naked,” I began to understand everything. The reason for the adulteration was not haste in transcription nor the desire of the journalist to prove his hypothesis at all cost, even distorting the words of the interviewee to do so. Something major is brewing with this semi-apocryphal text, and I now make a stop along the way in my blog to warn of it.
I have a very vivid memory of that afternoon almost three months ago - curiously Mr. Lamrani has waited all this time to publish our conversation - and of the words we exchanged. I remember his stereotypical questions, at times uninformed about our reality, and with very little resemblance to those, as documented, that he has reworked to appear to be a specialist. I would not characterize myself as one who responds in monosyllables, and I had a hard time finding myself among so much parsimony. As our interchange at the Hotel Plaza advanced, I could sense the sympathy he had for my position growing. In the end, I felt that all the barriers had fallen and he understood that we were not opponents, simply people who saw the same phenomena from different viewpoints. A final hug on his part confirmed it. But, evidently, his discipline for “the cause” was stronger than his journalistic ethics, and the professor from the Sorbonne ended up - visibly in the second part of the interview - falsifying my voice. On his painfully hip iPhone my moderate phrases must have been like a computer virus, eating away at the stereotypes, a call to end the confrontation that people like him prefer to feed.
In a seemingly never ending cycle there are frequent announcements of remedies that will invigorate our economy. This time it is called, “Ending the inflated payrolls,” although from the perspective of those who will be left without jobs it can be summarized in one word: unemployment. Lengthy reports on TV show that the problem of inefficiency is caused by the excess of personnel in offices, factories and even hospitals. Each workday must contain enough work to avoid idleness, they tell us on the news, as if such an elemental formula had just been discovered in the last couple of weeks.
Some economists warn that sending home all the excess workers could make the unemployment figures soar to more than 25%. One in four workers would be laid off in order to clean up the bloated payrolls, as the country has no liquidity to keep on paying idle hands. Such a high number of unemployed would imply an increase in social unrest, hundreds of thousands of people released to take up illegal occupations, and finally the trick of creating underemployment as a way of adulterating the employment statistics. I would like to investigate what will happen in those government departments, swarming with bureaucrats, or what will happen with the engorged list of those who work for State Security. Will they also be downsizing? Seeing the growing number of plainclothes police who roam the streets, I think they should start with them to eliminate so much excess. For reasons of image, those left outside will not be called unemployed but rather something subtle – as already happens at other times – such as “surplus” or “idled.”
A few days after the May Day celebration, many Cubans are at risk of losing their jobs. However, I am sure that we will not see, in the parade from the Plaza, a single sign displaying discontent or criticism about the layoffs. The president of the Cuban Confederation of Workers himself said that the gathering of the workers will be to reaffirm their support for the process and to criticize the so-called media campaign against Cuba. The only legal labor union in the country shows its status as a transmitter of directions from the powers-that-be to the workers, but it does not carry demands in the other direction. We will see them pass in front of the podium, on the point of losing their jobs, but carrying banners repudiating the European Union or the United States. No one will be able to make this day one of real complaint, a meeting to demand from the great patron called The State that it not leave them in the street.
For Cubans of my generation the idea of longing for success entailed the suffering of a terrible ideological deviation, not only if one tried to stand out personally, but also professionally or economically. We were brought up to be humble and with the imposed norm that if we received some public recognition, we would have to stress that without the help of the comrades around us it would have been impossible to obtain such a result. The same thing happened with the simple possession of an object, the enjoyment of a comfort, or the “unhealthy” ambition to prosper.
The desire to be competitive was punished with labels very difficult to expunge from our dossiers, accusations such as self-sufficient or immodest. The success must be – or seem to be – common, the fruit of everyone’s labors, under the wise direction of the Party. And so we learned that self-esteem must be hidden and enterprising enthusiasm reined in. The mediocre made a killing in this society which ended up clipping the wings of the most daring while promoting conformity. Those were times of hiding material possessions, to show that we were the children of the self-sacrificing proletariat and to affirm that we detested the bourgeoisie.
Some faked their embrace of egalitarianism, even as in reality they accumulated privileges and amassed fortunes while repeating, in their speeches, calls for austerity. They reiterated in their autobiographies that they came from poor families and their main aspiration was to serve the fatherland. In time, their colleagues discovered that hidden behind the ascetic image was a diverter of State resources or a compulsive accumulator of material possessions. Even today, the mask of frugality covers their faces while their bulging abdomens tell a completely different story.
With the mass stampede of foreign investors, the store shelves show the real statistics of our finances. My mother called early to tell me there is toilet paper in a distant market; she said I should hurry because word was already out and it soon would be gone. I go out looking to the right and left like a fan, to see if there is any kind of juice to put in Teo’s cup for the morning. But the shortage of supplies is remarkable. Río Zaza brand Tetra Paks have disappeared from the shops; the former joint venture that produced them is now mired in a corruption scandal. The black market has collapsed; it’s no secret to anyone that it is fed by the diversion of resources from the factories and the theft of goods while in transport to the shops.
Even the most patient foreign entrepreneurs, like the Spanish who ran the outstanding firm Vima*, have packed their bags and gone home. The consortium between the perfume maker Suchel and the Iberian capital provided by Camacho has come to an end and in the absence of dyes my friends are showing their grey hairs. The time when the country bought first and paid later is over, now we are carrying so much debt it is difficult to attract capital or to buy on credit. The effects of the crisis are felt strongly in everyday life, with the price of soap 30% more than it was a year ago. The housewives scratch their heads faced with the skillet, while shouting that the wages go like water once paid at the end of the month. Not even those blessed by a remittance received from abroad or the skilled traders in the informal market have it easy.
Few remember now that speech from three years ago in Camagüey, where Raul Castro suggested the possibility of a glass of milk for every Cuban. Quite the contrary, the words he delivered last Sunday have brought us trenches, parapets and apocalyptic images of an Island sinking into the sea. Chasing the elusive food, we have little time to reflect on what was said at the Palace of Conventions, but his Numantian* threats hang over us. Interpreted literally, they portend that we can expect a foxhole surrounded by sandbags, a rifle to shoot we do not know whom, with the final bullet in the chamber to be used on ourselves. Meanwhile, the General will stand firmly at his post and check, from a distance, that no one breaches the final order of immolation.
Translator’s notes:
Vima: Food importer which supplied hotels and state-run businesses.
Numantian: Search on “the siege of Numantia” for background; in short, the Numantines chose to burn their city rather than surrender it to the Romans.
Just yesterday, on the eve of the presentation in Chile of a compilation of my blog posts under the title Cuba Libre, I received a report from the Customs Department of the Republic. It confirmed the confiscation of ten copies of my book sent via DHL. In the rancid and brief words of the bureaucracy, it explained:
Physical inspection of the package found documents whose content goes against the general interests of the nation, and for this reason they have been seized consistent with the established legislation.
I try to recreate the scene of “the specialists” clarifying if they would or would not permit the book to cross the borders of this Island and come into my hands. Would they look in its pages for some obscene images that could offend morality? Certainly they didn’t find any among the photos of inflammatory billboards with political slogans, the dilapidated bowels of an abandoned car and the Cuban flags on display in a market that does not accept national currency. The latter may seem obscene but it’s not my fault.
Would those who groped the phrases of Cuba Libre be zealous doctors of grammar, looking for an error, perhaps, or misuse of a verb tense? Were they military analysts, searching between the paragraphs of my chronicles for hidden codes, revelations about the economy, or secret State Security documents? They found none of that, not even the recipe for how to make guarapo, the nearly extinct national drink made by crushing sugar cane.
I make do with fantasizing that those who prevented the Spanish version of my posts reaching hundreds of friends, among whom they would have circulated, were some soldiers with more discipline than literacy. They were probably already warned by the listeners who constantly monitor my telephone; they might even have been warned not to read the contents. If three years of publishing in cyberspace would serve to bring my voice only to these grim censors, I would have sufficient reason to be satisfied. Something of me would remain inside them, just as their repressive presence has marked my chronicles, my book has pushed them to leap toward freedom.
The biggest meeting of the Union of Young Communists (UJC) ended in Havana, but its older relative, the Party, still hasn’t announced the date it will hold its Sixth Congress. Raúl Castro affirmed, in early 2009, that he would call, very soon, a national conference of the Communist Party of Cuba but at this point no one can find it on the calendar. So the UJC has gone ahead and met in the Palace of Conventions and discussed topics that might have led to fruitful debates if they had occurred within a framework of true respect.
Under the motto “All for the Revolution,” hundreds of young faces observed the presidential table full of officials who have already lived more than six decades. The older generation was not there to tell them the latest news, “The country is yours, it is up to you, now, to decide its directions,” but rather to exhort them to sacrifice, admonish them for their lack of fighting spirit, and to extract from them promises of continuity and eternal fidelity. It is the type of behavior that a political party uses to attract its quarry, but in the case of Cuba the UJC is the only youth organization permitted under the law. It is noteworthy that at the age in which we try on various personas and defend the most incredible causes, our youth is only admitted to membership under the red card. Many of them, in freer circumstances, would swell the ranks of a conservation group, sign on with some union activists, or join together to demand to end compulsory military service.
Those who today form the UJC were born at the beginning of the Special Period, when toys were not seen in the ration shops and they could only drink milk, legally, until they were seven. They grew up thanks to the black market and wore shoes because their parents diverted State resources or asked an exiled relative for help in buying them. This is a generation that came of age in the midst of the tourist apartheid that blocked Cubans from entering hotels or accessing certain services; children nursed on empty slogans in the schools and the language of monotony at home. Despite their promises of loyalty, I suspect they nurture thoughts of revenge, of that moment when they will break all the promises they made to their elders.
Twenty years ago our streets began to fill with bicycles and empty of cars. It wasn’t in fashion to protect the environment, nor to get exercise, rather it was the direct result of the end of the Soviet subsidy. The preferentially priced oil supplies from the East were interrupted, public transport collapsed and my father lost his job as a train mechanic. In those days, getting to work could take the equivalent of half a day and we frequently traveled hanging out of the doors of the bus, like bunches of human grapes.
Then the successive shipments of bicycles from the land of Deng Xiaoping arrived, and were distributed among the outstanding workers and vanguard students. Now the reward for a meritorious task or for unconditional ideology was no longer a trip to East Germany or the delivery of the latest model Russian Lada, but rather a shiny Forever brand bicycle. Parking lots where the light vehicles were protected from thieves sprang up everywhere and my father opened a workshop to repair punctures. Innovations also appeared with the addition of baby seats, trailers and front baskets. Even women of an advanced age, reluctant to show off their legs while they worked the pedals, ended up adapting themselves to the rhythm of the times.
With the dollarization of the economy high level officials, artists and foreign residents were permitted to import their own cars, while tourists could rent a Peugeot or Citröen. So the streets experienced once again the steady rolling of tires. The number of bicycles dwindled because ships full of them no longer arrived, spare parts became scarce, and Cubans got tired of pedaling everywhere. A slight improvement in the bus service has led many to get rid of their rolling comrade, as if by this gesture they could rid themselves of the crisis.
For over a decade the corner of Infanta and Manglar showed the unfinished mass of a twenty-story building. Its completion ran aground with the coming of the Special Period and the end of the construction concept known as the “microbrigade.” Those who had laid the foundation with the illusion of getting an apartment in the high-rise, raged with impotence when it was announced construction could not continue. They had given years of their lives to raise the walls and suddenly the wished-for home escaped them with the same celerity as the Soviet technicians, boarding airplanes back to their homeland.
With its twenty floors incomplete, and still surrounded by construction materials, the building came to be one of those new ruins that un-gild our city. The enormous housing problems led many to make plans to occupy it illegally, so as not to have to stay in a shelter provided for the victims of some remote cyclone. The site, however, was well-guarded as some office was cooking up a plan to restart the work and award the apartments. The neighbors saw them return with some cranes, trucks and cement, and a few construction workers, who would not live there after the opening. In place of the original
microbrigade members, the owners would be selected based on their political, artistic or journalistic merit. We all understood what they were doing: the building at Infanta and Manglar would be awarded to the most faithful.
In the middle of the campaign to bring Elián González back to Cuba, some voices stood out who were immediately seen to be compensated for their enthusiasm with a key to their new home. Popular cunning baptized the finally completed building in Cerro, “Fame and Applause” – a reference to the TV show – and it began to fill with singers, film directors, cartoonists, ministers, reporters and actors. Participating in the “Battle of Ideas” now would have a concrete result: the ability to enjoy a window with a view of the impoverished district of San Martín. For many, finally getting their own home encouraged them to commit themselves even more to the official discourse and their public stance moved a little closer to unconditional support. Below, the illuminated parking lot was rapidly filling with modern cars which arrived to complete the already substantial perks.
The eyes that peek out of the humble dwellings next door are surprised that the ruined building of old is now a huge mass, freshly painted, with anti-glare glass, and famous faces looking out of each window.
* The so-called Battle of Ideas was twist in the ideological propaganda that arose with the Elián González case and died – without any announcement from the official press – a couple of years ago now. It consumed enormous economic resources to mobilize participants of Open Forums, prepare T-shirts with political slogans, and organize marches of revolutionary reaffirmation.
This is not the chronicle of a woman who manages to escape from her abusive husband, nor the story of a teenager who runs away from authoritarian parents. The title refers to another process of emancipation – complicated and feudal – that doctors, nurses and pharmacists must request to travel outside the island. Under the significant name of “liberation,” there is a mandatory process that Public Health workers must complete to be allowed to leave, temporarily or permanently. Included in the record of the possible traveler is whether he owns his own home or car, because the State will confiscate those if he does not return within 11 months. The paperwork passes through numerous levels of authorization that can delay it a year or a decade. Many never receive a reply.
Mario saw patients in a specialized practice and began to be seen as a deserter when he announced a desire to reunite with his family across the sea. He was immediately punished by being assigned to a position of general practitioner in an emergency room far from his house. They reminded him every day that the degree hanging on the wall in his living room had been given to him by the Revolution, which he now was betraying. Forced to swallow it whole, he endured the four years of repeated jabs and investigation for his safe-conduct to leave the country, which the minister of his branch still had not signed. “We have many cases, we can’t cope,” the secretary repeated, and his exiled wife broke into tears on the telephone when he told her. His children, meanwhile, were growing up in some distant place without a father.
In the midst of his impotence, Mario came to reproach his mother for having encouraged him to study medicine. “Why didn’t you warn me!” he shouted one afternoon, when he could no longer bear the white coat that had become his shackles. When they finally allowed him to board the plane, a circle of baldness delineated the middle of his head and a nervous tick had taken control of his hands. To those who welcomed him in a distant airport, he was not the enterprising orthopedist from years ago, but someone who had decided to have nothing to do with hospitals. The agonizing process of “liberation” had taken away any desire to fix a knee or correct an ankle; he couldn’t stop thinking that it was that profession that had separated him from his family.
It was hard for me to convince my friends at pre-university to let me listen to some songs by Silvio Rodríguez on their Russian tape players. I was born in a neighborhood that vibrated to the rhythm of salsa, rumba and guaguancó, where the poetic images of that singer were not very well received. I could only manage to hear a bit of Ojalá before one of them would change the cassette and play something from Los Van Van or NG La Banda. The official media, however, was constantly playing “The Blue Unicorn” and we speculated whether behind the metaphor we would find a woman, or a pair of jeans stolen from the clothesline.
Just when I was beginning to get excited about the compositions of this singer-songwriter, everything collapsed around me. The crisis* came, the beatings in response to the Maleconazo* and I could see the rafters setting out on the slice of the sea visible through my shutters. I was shocked that so many wanted to clear off, meanwhile Silvio continued singing: “I live in a free county, which can only be free on this earth at this moment.” Still, the minstrel of San Antonio touched me, especially the themes that plucked on the heartstrings, because those of a social and political nature seemed passé. Then came university and, in his voice, the song “The Fool” appeared, and with that I finally identified him with the system, the government, the status quo, “the thing,” in short, the group in power.
Just today I have been able to read the full statement made by the author of “For Whomever Deserves Love.” The official press avoids it, but it ricocheted around the foreign media until finally reaching us. His words seem to deny that chorus of “I died as I lived,” where he announced his refusal to accept the changes we Cubans have been crying out for for decades. But now, disenchantment lending him a critical ear, he listens, but with the stealth of someone who has too much to lose if he shares all his opinions about the national disaster. He knows that in our eyes he is “their man,” sadly typecast as a troubadour who, from the beginning, played the strings of intransigence.
During the launch of his latest album, Silvio ventured a linguistic play on words to overcome “the R in revolution” and in its place give priority to “evolution.” As if, in place of excluding a new dissident, it is better to accept him into the group of those of us crying for openings; I am going to follow his lead and eliminate the inconvenient letter at the beginning of “repression.” With a certain slight metamorphosis — removing an R and slipping in an X — that word and all that hangs on it would mutate to free “expression,” which we so badly need. Meanwhile, speaking of R’s, the R in the name of the one who governs us needs to take its owner, leave the stage, and give way as soon as possible to the other consonants of our plural alphabet.
Translator’s notes:
The crisis = After the collapse of the Soviet Union and the loss of its financial support for Cuba.
Maleconazo = A social uprising, that is a riot, that erupted along the Malecon in August 1994.
A couple of years ago I went to the DHL office in Miramar to send some family videos to friends in Spain. The clerk looked at me as if I were trying to send a molecule of oxygen to another galaxy. Without even touching the Mini DV cassette, she told me that the Havana branch only accepted VHS. I thought it was a question of size, but the explanation she gave was even more surprising, “It’s just that our machines to view the content only read the large cassettes.” When I tried to insist, the woman suspected that instead of the smiling face of my son, I wanted to send “enemy propaganda” abroad.
Frustrated, I returned home – where I have never received a piece of regular mail – and some time passed before I again had need of the services of this German company. Faced with the impossibility of traveling to Chile to present my book, Cuba Libre, a few days ago the publisher sent me ten copies, in a single package marked “express.” Neither my numerous telephone calls to the office at the corner of 1st and Calle 26, nor my physical presence there, managed to make them deliver what is mine. “Your package has been confiscated,” they told me this morning, even though in reality they should have been more honest and confessed, “Your package has been stolen.” Although these are the same texts that, without descending into verbal violence, have been published on the web for three years, the customs censors have handled it as if it were a manual about how to make Molotov cocktails.
Now, when headlines around the world are announcing the end of the Google’s collusion with Chinese censorship, foreign companies located in Cuba continue to obey ideological filters imposed by the government. With its airs of efficiency, its tradition of immediacy, and its phrases such as, “We keep an eye on your package,” DHL has agreed to apply a political filter to its customers. To refuse to do so would earn them expulsion from the country with the consequent economic losses, and so they ignore the sanctity of the mail and look the other way when someone demands what belongs to them. The red and yellow colors of their corporate identity never seemed to strident to me. Looking at them today I feel that instead of speed and efficiency they represent a warning: “Not even with us is your correspondence safe!”
At does every year, the Baseball National Series attracts the attention of millions of Cubans. “The ball,” as we call it, has been the national sport for many years, and not surprisingly generates heated discussions in the central parks of every town on the island. For those of us with the illusion that people are preoccupied by the most burning issues of the day, it’s always a little frustrating to come across a group of men shouting and gesticulating passionately, not about how to end the country’s dual monetary system, nor how to reclaim some right they’ve been cheated out of, but only about whether some play was the right thing to do, or who, among the all the players, is the best batter.
But the primary sporting passion of Cubans is not exempt from politics, especially when some baseball superstar decides not to return home after a trip abroad, or if a player is not chosen to play at an international event because he is feared to be unreliable and at risk of “deserting.” At a recent match-up between two teams of ardent rivals, one player was offended because he thought that the ball had been thrown with the intention of hitting him, and to the surprise of the spectators, he ran after the pitcher swinging his bat. The players emptied the bench, some fans dived into the fray, and the police made generous use of their pepper spray and batons, with a few kicks thrown in for good measure. The official cameras broadcasting the game were turned away from the melee, and not a single TV viewer knew what had happened… at that time.
But the new technologies foiled the prudish censor, as dozens of digital cameras and cell phones filmed every detail. That version of events was distributed to thousands of people on CDs and flash memories. And what great discussions we had in the parks, then!
Silvio was accompanied home with shouts of joy after the meeting to nominate the delegate from his district. He only received 15 out of a total of 120 votes, but his was the victory of the ant that manages to dig into the wall, the triumph of a small peep that can be heard over the din. Even though they had brought people not even on the voters list into the Punta Brava municipality, the official candidate enjoyed only 45 hands raised in his favor. Abstaining was how 50% of the crowd expressed their dissent – or indifference – to an election process with very little influence on real life.
I remember when Silvio Benítez spoke for the first time to introduce himself at the People’s Power elections in his district. Not even his closest friends cherished the hope that he would be nominated, or at least manage to get someone – outside his family – to publicly propose his name. The frustration, a priori, the reluctance to get our hopes up, has played too large a part in our lives. Thus, we feel defeated before even planning a way to transform our country. The raft sailing the sea, or complicit silence, remain the most common strategies for solving each individual’s problems, given that the national “problem” seems permanent.
That night in Punta Brava, however, the soap opera was less of a draw than the worn-out machinery of choosing “the best and most capable.” Curiosity filled the streets and sidewalks with people wanting to know if “the candidate of change” had managed to win. Silvio had promised them a different program, one marked not by ideology but by citizen management. Even though he did not succeed in getting his name on the list of the more than 15 thousand delegates from around the country, at least half the electors in his area felt compelled to abstain. Not daring to vote for him, many of his neighbors stuffed their hands in their pockets, stroked the heads of their children, or held their cigarette in front of their lips when they called for a show of hands. His victory was in all those folded arms, all those mouths that didn’t venture to mention his name, but that did not reject him.
Tough times are coming. In the long term, I’m optimistic, but a sense of apprehension overwhelms me thinking of the years ahead. The accumulated frustration is too much. They have systematically sown among us the rejection of different opinions and this will not be erased overnight. Yesterday, when I saw a housewife vulgarly screaming, “the worms are rioting” – referring to the march of the Ladies in White – I thought about the long road to tolerance that lies ahead. Learning to debate without offending, to live together with plurality and respect for differences, will have to become a compulsory subject in our schools. It is going to be a long process to make everyone understand that diversity is a cure, not a disease.
I fear that the always-present shout and slap will remain the quickest way to silence the other. I shudder to imagine a Cuba where physical – and legal – attacks against people, for their political affiliation or ideological leanings, continue. What a sad country we will have if the authorities continue to consider it normal to “teach a good lesson” to anyone who contradicts the official viewpoint. To me, a society that passively stands by as peaceful women with gladioli in their hands are bullied, as happened yesterday, is quite sick. But the sectarianism did not end there, rather they sought to justify it and to accomplish that they prepared a script for the most mind-numbing program on Cuban television: The Roundtable. Viewers, however, after two hours of stoic listening, knew that in the absence of arguments they were left only with insults, defamation, and verbal acrobatics.
Why don’t they have the courage to invite, to this dreary set where they carry on a monologue every afternoon, at least a couple of people who think differently? The most timid and laconic of the dissidents I know would expose them with a few questions and with some brief phrases would shatter their conspiracy theory. But they wouldn’t dare. Sheltered by power – there is no worse ally for a journalist – their words and pens sustained by their perks and privileges, they know they could not withstand the artillery of criticism. Thus, they extol the beating, resort to slogans, and show some hand-picked videos to prove that differences must be crushed. And so they feed the fanaticism, this germ that threatens to survive long past their own lives: the legacy of hatred and distrust that they intend to leave to us.
To walk to the edge of the stage and speak only within limits, is required practice for certain critical artists still living in Cuba. Occasionally they offer us a phrase seasoned with dissent which will be published in foreign newspapers, though it will find no echo in our national ones. With one foot inside and one foot outside the Island, it must be difficult to go from speaking out to whispering. The long stays abroad have thus become a catalyst of opinions for some representatives of our culture. Evidently, interaction with other realities – with their achievements and their problems – have made the triumphalist slogans sound very distant while the intolerance in their own backyard becomes insufferable.
Pablo Milanes’ last interview – published in Spain under the title, “I want change in Cuba as soon as possible” – shows, on the one hand, the restraint with which he avoids burning the bridges of return, and on the other the audacity of someone who is very worried about what is happening in his country. There is, undoubtedly, an enormous risk in calling those who govern us, “reactionaries of their own ideas”; these are the people who have censored so many writers, musicians and actors for saying much less. The author of the song Yolanda walks the knife’s edge along which others have been cut to shreds. Protecting him in this undertaking are the strength of his international reputation and the support of people from every place and generation. An unknown neighborhood singer-songwriter would pay dearly, but they need Pablo.
Emigration has marked too strongly the artistic level on our stages. Not only have my colleagues from the university and my contemporaries from the neighborhood left en masse, but Cuban culture has a percentage of its representatives – some would say a majority – outside our borders. To lose, now, this strong voice would be to admit that those who composed the background music that accompanied the construction of utopia have stopped believing in it. So no website of any official institution is going publish an aggressive and threatening diatribe against the frankness of the interviewee. Nor will they inform the Madrid consulate that he is no longer welcome in his own country, nor accuse him of speaking with the words of an “American lover.” None of these stigmatizing strategies will be deployed against Pablo, but in the off-hour ministerial chats and the closed circles of power they will not forgive him for having behaved like a free man.
*Translator’s note: The title of this post is taken from the title of one of Pablo Milanes’ songs.
A deluge of events is falling on Cuba. The first drops fell at the beginning of January, with the death of several dozen patients in the Havana Psychiatric Hospital from starvation and cold. The flood of problems intensified with the death of Orlando Zapata Tamayo, pushed to his end by the negligence of his jailers and the stubbornness of our leaders.Then came the hunger strike of the journalist Guillermos Fariñas and with it our lives fell into the center of a political tornado whose hurricane winds are increasing every day.
In parallel with these tempests, a series of possible corruption scandals have come as a check on the power in Cuba. According to rumors, allegations have come to light about ministers with suitcases of dollars hidden in their water tanks, commercial flights whose dividends went into the hands of a few, and juice factories whose enormous earnings were quickly rushed out of the country. Among those implicated appear to be men who came down from the Sierra Maestra and enriched themselves awarding licenses to foreign companies who repaid them with extremely succulent commissions. The State has been looted by the State itself. The diversion of resources has reached a level to where the filching of a little milk from a warehouse looks like child’s play. The hierarchy of power on this Island takes to the road with their hands full, as if they sense that today’s downpour will eventually bring the roof down on their heads. It gives the impression that the country is in the midst of a liquidation sale and many — wearing the olive green uniform — are taking the opportunity to make off with what little we have left.
The silent press, meanwhile, speaks to us of past glories, of anniversaries to be commemorated, all the while declaring that the Revolution has never been stronger. Behind the curtain, a series of purges are carried out and the auditors dig into the guts of our finances, confirming there’s nothing they can do before the advance of corruption. The “historic” generation not only showed us how to live a complete masquerade, they have also sown the idea that the nation’s coffers are managed like a personal wallet. The wastewaters from ethical and moral misery, that they themselves nurtured and prospered from, appear as if they are about to drown everyone.
To report what hurts us, to write about what we have encountered, touched, suffered, transcends the journalistic experience to become a living testimony. The distance between articles about a man on a hunger strike and the act of feeling his ribs protruding from his sides, is an abyss. Thus, no interview can reproduce the tear filled eyes of Clara, Guillermo Fariñas’ wife, while she tells me that for their daughter her father has a stomach illness and so grows thinner every day. Not even a long report could manage to describe the panic induced by the camera which, a hundred yards from the home of this Villa Claran, observes and films everyone who approaches number 615A Calle Alemán.
To accumulate paragraphs, compile quotes and show recordings, fails to convey the odor of the emergency room where Fariñas was moved yesterday. My guilt for having come too late to beg him to eat again, to persuade him to avoid irreversible damage to his health, is unbearable. On the drive there I wove together some phrases to convince him not to carry on to the end, but before coming into the city a text message confirmed he was hospitalized. I would have said to him, “You have already accomplished it, you have helped to remove their mask,” but instead of this I had to offer words of consolation to his family, sitting in his absence in that room in the humble neighborhood of La Chirusa.
Why have they brought us to this point? How can they close all the paths of dialog, debate, healthy dissent and necessary criticism? When this kind of protest, a protest of empty stomachs, happens in a country we have to question whether they have left citizens any other way to show their lack of consent. Fariñas knows they will never give him one minute on the radio, that his voice cannot rise up, without penalty, in a public place. Refusing to eat was the way he found to show the desperation and despair of living under a system that gags and masks his most important “conquests.”
Coco cannot die. Because in the long funeral procession that is taking Orlando Zapata Tamayo, our voice and the rights of citizens which they killed long ago… there is no room for one more death.
Along with Brazilian soap operas, documentaries pirated from the Discovery Channel, and the boring Round Table talk show, there is another form of television reporting that emulates the saga of “Big Brother.” On our little screen we see citizens filmed by hidden cameras and get a view of the emails in their electronic in-boxes, without any of this having been ordered by a judge. As if we lived in a glass house overseen by the State’s severe eye, even the telephone company records the conversations of its clients and broadcasts them to eleven million shocked viewers.
The final form of this public dissection is to air the declarations of doctors who violate the privacy of what is said in a consultation to reveal the details of a medical case, an act as serious as that of the priest who betrays the secrets of the confessional. Photos of the insides of the homes and even the refrigerators of those who have dared to contravene official opinion emerge, while the paparazzi and political police are fused into a single character very close to a voyeur. It would not surprise me that some dossier – waiting to be brought to light – displays the nude body of a non-conformist, as if being naked were irrefutable proof of his “badness.”
Images taken out of context, edited phrases, and unfavorable angles meant to generate aversion in public opinion, are some of the techniques around which these TV reports are built. In none of them is the “victim” interviewed, which of course prevents the run-of-the-mill viewer from finding out they have critical opinions in common. Unfortunately for the crude producers of this kind of reality show, the technology in the hands of citizens has started to make the walls around our lives transparent as well. Having been so long observed, we now see that there is hole we can look through to the other side of the fence.
I watch my fellow citizens go to the bodega like automatons, meekly vegetate at work and cast hopeless ballots at the polls. Their lives pass by while they shop for ever shrinking bread rations, collect their symbolic wages which don’t stretch far enough for even a bad life, and raise their hands at the meetings to nominate candidates. None of those chosen in the current electoral process will manage to solve the daily problems that weigh upon life in Cuba. Of the candidates my fellow citizens know almost nothing, barely recognizing their photos or their biographies, which are stuffed with “accomplishments” and the almost universal statement that they are “of humble origin.” Yet not a single word is devoted to their programs or intentions once they assume their new post.
Curiously almost everyone who comes to be a district delegate is a militant of the Cuban Communist Party and puts their party discipline ahead of their obligations to the voters. They will not represent us against the government, nor be our voice projected to the institutions, but rather will serve as heralds for the bad news coming down from above, transmission channels for regulations and directives decided by a few. In the more than thirty years of their existence, these representatives of the People’s Power have not managed to efficiently collect the garbage, coax quality products from the bakeries, or ensure that the sewers are not everywhere overflowing. Nor do they embody the heterogeneity of opinions in our society. They have come to their positions more through proven loyalty than by their ability to manage.
Tonight is the meeting to nominate candidates for the area of concrete blocks where I live. The citation arrived a couple of days ago, meanwhile on TV they are calling for us to choose the best and most capable. I have not one iota of faith, however, in a mechanism that has proven itself unworkable and discriminatory. I would like to raise my hand for the neighbor of strong words and concrete projects who lives across from me, but there are orders to forestall any nomination of a “dissident,” including those who may only seem inclined toward change. It is highly likely that the nomination will go to the same delegate who has, for more than ten years, promised us solutions, knowing full well it is not in his hands to deliver them. He is the comfortable candidate of these useless elections, while we are mere figurines who must raise our hands or mark our ballots.
The lady raises the stamp and brings it near the paper, then finally sets it off to the side without having stamped your permission to leave. “You are not authorized to travel,” she says, and the whole office hears the phrase that condemns you to remain confined on this Island. At other tables the applicants look at their feet to avoid meeting your eyes looking into theirs, searching for solidarity. The soldiers passing by scrutinize you from above with the reproach of those who think, “She must have done something, not to be allowed to leave.”
Until this last minute you thought that maybe the archives of the Ministry of the Interior would not be too well organized and your history of nonconformity would not come to light. You often imagined that a secretary would go for pizza at the exact moment she checked your file and the rumblings of her stomach would make her put it, as quickly as possible, in the pile of those approved. You know well the effect that melted cheese and tomato sauce can cause in a bureaucrat who looks at her watch at three in the afternoon.
But the option of state negligence didn’t work this time. They uncovered your case from the moment you presented the first papers for a trip south. Some boss with the rank of lieutenant colonel would have smiled on seeing you were finally in his hands. After you believed you could act like a free man, speaking your mind loudly and publishing articles without a pseudonym, you had reached the point where you would feel all the walls, all the bars, all the locks.
You have no criminal record, have never been found guilty by a court, and your most frequent offenses consist of buying cheese or milk on the black market. Nevertheless you have just verified that you are suffering a punishment. Your sentence is to remain behind the bars of this archipelago, confined by this band of sea which some in their naïveté consider a bridge and not the uncrossable moat it really is. Nobody will let you out because you are a prisoner with a number stuck to your back, even though you think you are wearing the blouse you took from the closet this morning. You are in the dungeon of the “immobilized pilgrims,” in the cell of those forced to stay.
Through the window a voice berates you for not having shut up, faked it a little… worn the mask to be able to travel. You will not see the light until the entire prison is torn down.
Life never returns to normal, it does not go back to that time before the tragedy that now – illusorily – we evoke as a period of calm. I open my datebook, try to resume my life, the blog, the Twitter messages… but nothing comes out. These last days have been too intense. The face of Reina Tamayo, in the shadows in front of the morgue where she prepared and dressed her son for his longest journey, is the only thing in my mind. Then the images of Wednesday piled on: arrests, beatings, violence, a jail cell with the stink of urine that adjoined another where Eugenio Leal and Ricardo Santiago demanded their rights. The rest of the time I continue on like a mannequin, looking without seeing, furiously typing.
And so, there is no one who writes a coherent and restrained line. I so want to scream, but February 24 left me hoarse.
This afternoon, hours after the death of Orlando Zapata Tamayo, Reinaldo and I were able to approach the Department of Legal Medicine, where autopsies are performed, in Boyeros Street.
A cordon of men from State Security were watching the place, but we managed to approach Reina, the mother of the deceased, and ask her the questions in the recording posted here.
Pain, indignation in our case… sadness and fortitude in hers. Here is the recording, amateur and in very low light, but the heartbreaking testimony of an anguished mother.
English transcript of Yoani Sanchez video interview of Reina Tamayo, mother of Orlando Zapata Tamayo
Yoani Sanchez: We are here to express our condolences. We would like to know at what time did he pass away, what do you know about his last minutes, what are your feelings right now, and what is going to happen after he is released by the coroner?
Reina Luisa Tamayo Dangier: I am Reina Luisa Tamayo Dangier, the mother of prisoner of conscience Orlando Zapata Tamayo who was interned in the hospital of the Habana del Este Prison. Last night he was moved to the Hermanos Ameijeiras Hospital where he passed away at 3:00 PM.
I can tell you I feel a horrible pain, but I am holding on, enduring through this pain. I was able to be at his side until he passed away and now hope to have the courage to dress my son Orlando Zapata Tamayo.
We will leave for Banes, Holguin Province, Embarcadero road, house number six, where we will hold the wake before our family altar, at my home, for as long as required.
I want to tell the world about my pain. I think my son’s death was a premeditated murder. My son was tortured throughout his incarceration. His plight has brought me great pain and has been excruciating for the entire family. Even, as he was transferred to this prison, he was first held in Camaguey without drinking water for 18 days. My son dies after an 86-day hunger strike. He is another Pedro Boitel for Cuba. [Pedro Luis Boitel died in 1972 during a hunger strike while serving a 10-year prison sentence in Cuba]
In the midst of deep pain, I call on the world to demand the freedom of the other prisoners and brothers unfairly sentenced so that what happened to my boy, my second child, who leaves behind no physical legacy, no child or wife, does not happen again. Thank you!
You could have been a prostitute selling her favors, or equally an interrogator for State Security. The needs were so many, that to exchange your body for a bottle of shampoo or some soaps, was always a possibility. Only your figure was too frail for the trade and your skin so pale, for those foreigners who come looking for the cinnamon tone of the tourist ads. You lacked a “certain something” to carry off the tight-fitting garments of exchanging sex for money, of strutting around outside some hotel to get your family out of a tight spot.
You were on the point of donning a uniform when, on finishing the ninth grade, you thought of going to the Camilo Cienfuegos military school, to escape from a house with too many prohibitions and too much misery. You thought you were ready to become a pursed lipped soldier with access to those little privileges you saw the members of the Army and the Interior Ministry enjoying. The timely advice of a friend made you abandon the shouts of “Ah-ten-SHUN!” and the constant rattle of a machine gun. But if, on that afternoon in 1990, you had not heard the query, “What would you do with yourself, wedged between orders and trenches?” perhaps now you would be intimidating someone in a closed room at Villa Marista, where they take the political prisoners.
You could have been a rafter, a suicide, a government minister’s lover, a censor, a political prisoner, a cop or a victim. It was not possible to emerge unscathed from this crisis of the nineties that touched your life, the collapse of values, the marginal scene where you came of age. Some part of you was left in red lycra standing on the corner, in the epaulet of a lieutenant, in these possible people you could have been, from which by chance, by events, and by your own weariness you were saved.
On
December
10 a mob
assaulted
women
who had
only
gladioli
in their
hands.
Fists
raised—urged
on by
plainclothes
police—they
surrounded
these
mothers,
wives
and
daughters
of those
imprisoned
since
the
Black
Spring
of 2003.
Several
of the
attackers
learned
the
script
on the
run and
mixed
current
political
slogans
with
those
popular
almost
three
decades
ago. It
was a
shock
troop
with
license
to
insult
and
beat,
granted
by
precisely
those
whose
job it
is to
maintain
order
and
protect
all
citizens.
On
Friday’s
news the
announcer
said
that
those
who
berated
the
Women in
White
represented
an
“enraged
people”,
but on
the
screen
there
was no
hint of
spontaneity
or real
conviction.
It just
looked
like
fanatics
who were
afraid,
very
afraid.
I’m
ashamed
to say
it, but
in my
country
the
demons
of
intolerance
were
having a
party on
Human
Rights
Day.
They
were
incited
by those
who have
long
since
lost the
capacity
to
convince
us of
their
argument
or to
win us
over
with a
new and
just
idea.
They
don’t
even
have an
ideology
any
more,
but only
keep
their
hands on
the
reins of
fear,
calling
for
“exemplary”
acts of
repudiation
to stem
the
growing
discontent.
In the
faces of
those
summoned
to a
social
lynching,
however,
one
could
see
doubt
alternating
with
rage and
the
exaltation
with the
trembling
of
knowing
themselves
observed
and
evaluated.
As
painful
as it
may be,
it’s
easy to
foresee
that
perhaps
one day
a
multitude
just as
unthinking
and
blind
might
direct
their
anger
against
those
who,
today,
pit some
Cubans
against
others.
With a
lack of
openings,
of more
food on
the
plate,
of
structural
changes
or
long-awaited
relaxations,
Raul
Castro’s
government
seems to
have
chosen
punishment
as the
formula
for
self-preservation.
It shows
no
tangible
results
from its
management,
rather
there is
the
sound of
the
rusty
instruments
of
control
and the
old
techniques
of
punishment.
In
recent
months
it
hasn’t
even put
forth
promises
of
projects,
or
announced
plans
with
imprecise
dates.
Rather,
it has
reached
for its
belt,
not
exactly
to
tighten
it in a
gesture
of
austerity
and
saving,
but
rather
to use
it as
authoritarian
parents
do, on
the hide
of its
children.
My
grandmother
told me
about it
with the
same
rapture
that,
decades
earlier,
her
parents
had
spoken
of the
old
dream of
El
Dorado.
She
divulged
that its
mass was
between
yellow
and
orange,
dry at
first
bite but
pleasant
and soft
once
inside
the
mouth.
Her
favorite
game
consisted
of
explaining
the
canistel
fruit to
me, as
there is
nothing
more
difficult
than
understanding
the
taste of
something
you’ve
never
tried.
“Ana,
what
does it
taste
like?” I
asked,
because
only a
comparison
would
help me
capture
the
aroma of
this
fruit
that was
missing
from my
life.
“Like a
mamey,
but
richer,”
was the
laconic
phrase
she
managed
to dig
up
before
falling
silent.
Many of
my
generation
knew
certain
flavors
by
hearsay,
described
by those
whose
memories
have
stored
the
tempting
taste of
the
loquat,
the star
apple,
the
marañón
or
cashew
apple,
and the
guava.
This
ability
to
activate
our
taste
buds
with
something
we had
never
chewed
helped
us
during
the
hardest
years of
the
Special
Period.*
On the
rusted
iron
bunk at
the
student
hostel
in
Alquizar,
I
regaled
a group
of girls
with
what
these
fruits—which
they had
never
heard of
or
tried—were
like.
The
story
was
repeated
weekly
in an
extemporaneous
discussion
group,
where
the
principle
themes
were
“sex and
food,”
the
latter
being
the true
obsession
of all
the
fifteen
year old
girls
gathered
there.
Time
passed
and a
week ago
my
mother
showed
up at
the
house
with
three
canistels.
She had
bought
them
from a
farmer
for more
than a
full
day’s
wages. I
thought
first of
Ana, who
died
more
than
twenty
years
ago and
who, in
the last
decades
of her
life,
never
saw the
golden
roundness
she so
much
longed
for. Teo
took the
first
bite and
made a
rare
gesture
before
confirming,
“It’s
like a
mamey.”
Then he
went
back to
his room
without
seeing
the
indecision
on my
face. To
try it
or not
to try
it? And
what if
it’s not
like
what I’d
been
told?
Happily,
it
turned
out to
be the
equal of
that
canistel
which—while
we both
salivated—my
grandmother
had
regaled
me with.
Translator’s
note
Special
Period:
The
years
after
the
collapse
of the
Soviet
Union
and the
loss of
its
financial
support
for
Cuba. It
was
named by
Fidel
Castro
as “A
Special
Period
in a
Time of
Peace.”
The
store is
located
in the
left
atrium
at the
corner
of
Galiano
and San
Rafael
streets,
where
there
used to
be a Ten
Cent
store,
long
since
rotted
from age
and
filth.
It’s
like an
alien
spaceship
that
landed
in a
neighborhood
that has
seen
many of
its
businesses
turned
into
homeless
shelters,
and
insignificant
small
offices
closed
because
of
blocked
sewers.
But
Trasval
is
different.
People
baptized
the
large
store,
run, so
they
say, by
the
Ministry
of the
Interior,
“the
museum”,
because
of the
high
prices,
in
convertible
pesos,
of all
the
merchandise.
Trasval
was
playing
at
capitalism,
with
background
music,
employees
dressed
in suits
and
sporting
earphones,
cameras
everywhere,
and
products
we had
never
seen. We
felt
like
chicks,
tucked
up in
the
lamplight
and the
tinkle
of the
melody,
which
would
end at
the cash
register
slaughterhouse
where we
would
pay
three
months
wages
for a
can
opener.
Inside,
you can
still
see an
area
with
tools
for your
swimming
pool,
though
the
clerks
haven’t
smiled
at the
customers
in
months
and they
no
longer
answer
questions
nicely.
The last
time I
was in
that
black-tile-lined
bunker
the
collapse
was
already
imminent.
The air
conditioning
didn’t
work;
the
employees
had shed
their
warm
clothing,
including
the
ties;
and
yards
and
yards of
the same
product
warned
of the
decline.
All the
can
openers
have
disappeared
and a
scandalous
rumor of
corruption
spread
in the
aisles.
Its
splendor
was
brief,
its
profit
would
have
been
enormous.
Because
Trasval
was the
latest
commercial
snare
offered
to
Cubans,
the
latest
elaborate
bait
prepared
by that
mix of
merchants
and
secret
police
who
swarm
everywhere
these
days.
Individuals
who both
traffic
in goods
and
inform
on us,
sell us
a lamp
or spy
on us
from a
corner,
count
the
money or
finger
the
pistol
they
wear on
their
hip.
December
has
always
been a
month to
spend
little
time at
home.
Outside
it is
not as
hot as
usual,
and the
New
Latin
American
Film
Festival
offers a
full
program
to tempt
us to
leave
the
house.
It’s
time to
get out
the
sweaters
and not
worry
too much
if the
bus is
too full
or we
have to
walk on
the
sunny
side of
the
street.
At the
end of
each
year
people
become
friendlier,
because
there is
little
time to
anguish
over
unfinished
projects.
These
are
weeks
when we
go on as
usual,
but as
if we
were
saying,
“OK, it
seems it
wasn’t
2009,
maybe
2010
will be
the year
we are
waiting
for.”
Traditionally
the
lines
lengthen
in front
of the
Acapulco
and
Chaplin
theaters;
there is
a crush
to
squeeze
through
the
narrow
doors,
and the
pressure
of the
moviegoers
can
break
the
glass.
Even
more
than
reliving
the
images
projected
on the
screen,
we enjoy
immersing
ourselves
in the
atmosphere
of the
festival
season.
Sometimes
the most
interesting
things
happen
while,
at the
mercy of
the
wind, we
wait for
the next
show and
a friend
tells us
about
the
debut of
some
young
director.
It is
precisely
this
bubble
of hope,
repeated
every
December,
that I
can’t
seem to
feel in
this
31st
go-round.
Nor have
the
temperatures
dropped,
and my
friends
from
before
are not
sitting
in the
seats,
but
rather
dispersed
and
distant
on
various
continents.
I keep
thinking
about
the
massive
assistance
provided
to each
film, a
product
of the
strong
Cuban
film
culture,
and also
about
the
absence
of other
entertainment
options
at
affordable
prices.
There is
not much
to do in
this
city;
those
who
don’t
have
convertible
pesos
have to
get
together–at
no
charge–along
the
walls of
the
Malecon,
which is
why the
Festival
is
highly
anticipated
and so
crowded.
Trying
to let
go of
this
cultural
lethargy,
I
decided
I don’t
care
whether
winter
is here
or not,
or if
there
are many
absent
faces in
the
crowd. I
opt to
take the
program,
pick a
title,
and
hurry
into the
unreality
of the
projection
room,
while
outside
the heat
and the
exodus
continue.
A friend
swore to
me ten
years
ago that
he would
not go
to the
beach
again
until he
could
buy—near
the
sand—a
beer in
national
currency.
His
pasty
white
legs
confirm
that he
hasn’t
been to
the sea
for a
decade,
while
waiting
to pay
for a
Cristal
beer
with his
own
wages.
My
neighbor
on the
corner
gave her
word
that she
would
not cut
her hair
before a
certain
date
longed
for by
many
Cubans.
Lice
made her
break
her
promise
at the
beginning
of the
nineties,
by which
time her
hair
reached
her
waist.
Recently
she
changed
her
strategy
and put
a glass
of water
on the
wardrobe;
she will
only
remove
it when
her
exiled
children
can
return
to live
with
her.
Tiny
wooden
houses
rest on
a tomb
in
Havana
Cemetery.
They are
the
material
expression
of
requests
to
la
Milagrosa,
the
miracle
worker,
to
provide
housing
for
those
who want
to
escape
the
paternal
home or
a
crowded
collective
hostel.
Along
with
these
miniatures
there
are toy
planes
and
boats,
to
realize
the
dream of
escaping
from the
insular
world to
one of
natural
size. In
the same
cemetery,
to the
south,
is the
tomb of
the
famous
medium
who
embodied
the
spirit
of Tá
José. A
rooster,
whose
head was
cut off
right
there,
was
offered
by some
young
man who
finally
achieved
a highly
coveted
position
in a
foreign
firm.
Others
are
waiting
for the
miracle
of an
exit
permit,
for the
release
of a
political
prisoner,
or for a
license
to open
a small
restaurant.
This
seems to
be the
island
of
impossibilities,
the land
of
unfulfilled
promises,
the
country
of
offerings
withheld,
asked
for but
never
received.
I myself
have
sworn
that I
am not
going to
stop
writing
because
each of
my lines
is a
prayer
from one
who
can’t
take it
any
more,
the
virtual
vote
from one
who has
let her
hair
grow,
put her
offering
on the
marble
and seen
several
glasses
of water
dry up.
Adolfo
Fernández
Sainz
lives
among
stories
like
this
one; he
turned
61
yesterday,
six of
them
locked
in
Canaleta
prison
since
the
Black
Spring
of 2003.
That
afternoon
the last
of his
canine
teeth
would be
extracted.
He had
spent
days on
it,
helped
by
another
inmate
who was
skilled
in
extracting
teeth,
even
molars.
The
collection
of what
had been
pulled
had been
put
under
the
pillow,
and
there
they
would
stay
until
the time
came for
throwing
them,
with
their
yellow
enamel,
through
the tiny
window
of the
cell.
If all
went as
expected,
the
coming
week he
would be
showing
his
smooth-gummed
mouth to
the
doctor.
He would
say they
had
fallen
out on
their
own, as
had
happened
to the
character
in the
film
Papillon,
which he
had seen
as a
boy. In
that
film the
prisoner
had
suffered
from
scurvy,
but he,
no. He
had
renounced
his
teeth to
get
access
to the
soft
diet
given to
prisoners
who
could
not
chew.
The
preparation
of
plantain
and
sweet
potato
was more
flavorful
than the
rancid
food
served
to the
others,
so it
was a
question
of
survival
to do
without
these
useless
things
surrounding
his
tongue.
Cojo (The
Cripple),
had
prepared
the
instruments
as if he
held a
diploma
in
dentistry.
Before
going to
Cojo’s
bunk he
studied
his
canine
for the
last
time in
the
polished
tin that
served
as a
mirror.
There
was
nothing
to be
sorry
about;
it was
full of
cavities,
twisted
to the
right
and
stained
with
nicotine.
This
little
obstacle
that
would
emerge
from his
mouth
was not
going to
stand
between
food and
his
needy
body. He
gave it
a few
knocks
to
loosen
it and
walked
over to
where
several
prisoners
were
waiting
for an
extraction.
On the
mattress,
a piece
of a
spoon
and a
small
metal
bar
would
take the
place of
a hammer
and
chisel
to
weaken
the
tooth;
an
improvised
pair of
pliers,
made
from two
pieces
of wire,
would
remove
the
root.
Payment
for the
makeshift
surgery
would be
in
cigarettes,
about
twenty
he had
saved
over
several
days of
not
smoking.
Later he
would go
to sleep
with the
throbbing
around
the hole
that had
once
sheltered
his
eyetooth,
but
happy to
be able
to join
the
brotherhood
of the
toothless.
Others
in their
beds
would
also be
controlling
the
pain,
while
dreaming
the
whole
night
through
of an
aluminum
tray
brimming
over
with
soft
puree.
Someone shoved a piece of paper
under my door. A sheet cut in
half with instructions about how
to evacuate in the case of a
hurricane or an invasion. One
phrase struck me like the
refrain of a bad song: “Sew a
tag to the clothes of minor
children with the identity of
their parents (in wartime).” I
imagined myself putting stitches
into my son’s shirt, so that in
the middle of the chaos someone
would know that his mother was
named Yoani and his father
Reinaldo.
The “War of the Whole
People”—currently undergoing a
practice run in the military
exercise called Bastion 2009—has
an assigned job for each of us.
It doesn’t matter that they make
us fear weapons, or if we have
never believed in confrontation
as a path to solutions, or if we
have no confidence in the
leaders who will head up our
squad. Those who sit at a table
covered with tiny plastic tanks
and planes, playing at
conflagration, want to hide that
we citizens have dug the deepest
trench to protect ourselves from
them.
The news is full of soldiers
with their weapons, but the
martial maneuvers fail to hide
that our real “enemies” are the
restrictions and control imposed
by the powers that be. War as a
distraction no longer works. The
threat of parachutes landing and
bombs echoing as an antidote to
the desire for change has ceased
to be effective. I think more
and more people are pointing a
finger at the true origin of our
problems and, though it comes as
a surprise to the champions of
the battle, their fingers do not
appear to be pointing abroad.
It delights us to
cure ourselves of that stage of
life we call adolescence and, in
particular, to become
independent. Finding an answer
to that question we have asked
ourselves so often: “What do you
want to be when you grow up?”
Able to leave home without
explaining ourselves, being
responsible for our own destiny,
and, above all, not having to
listen to any parental
admonition: “As long as I am
supporting you, you must do what
I tell you.”
Nations that
develop under the guidance of a
paternalistic state run the risk
of leaving their people in a
kind of stagnated adolescence.
The case of Cuba is one of the
paradigmatic examples. We live
under the national authority of
a government characterized by
the continuity of the people in
power, who have tried to
subsidize a portion of our basic
necessities. With great pride,
the official media touts that
medical care and all levels of
education are free, as well as
the existence of rationing which
supposedly guarantees a basic
market basket.
It is understood
that public funds defray this
maintenance, funds generated by
workers who produce what they
themselves cannot touch and who
are not compensated for doing
so. Obviously work is not
stimulating and what is earned
barely stretches to cover what
is subsidized. Papa State does
not allow the expression of
divergent opinions, much less
that people organize themselves
around these ideas or reach
economic independence; what is
worse is that he demands
infinite gratitude. Fortunately,
as the familiar paternalistic
model has taught us, everything
tends to change with the passage
of time. The children grow, turn
into adults, and nothing can
stop what the youngest will do
with the keys to the house.
The sun hasn’t come out all day
and a downpour constantly forces
us to duck into some doorway or
stay at home. One might think
that in a tropical country life
is organized taking the climate
into account, and that along
with our light clothing we
always have umbrellas and
raincoats at hand. Not so.
Leaking roofs are common,
especially in the construction
of the last fifty years; homes,
offices, schools and hospitals,
and even stores suffer repeated
losses because of them.
Collapses, now typical in the
urban landscape, are not the
result of bombardments of
imperialism, rather they are
caused by the difficulty of
acquiring waterproof
construction materials.
“I couldn’t go
because it was raining,” is the
most common excuse of the
season. Not coming, or arriving
late, whether to work or a
lovers’ assignation, is socially
acceptable when we offer this
convincing excuse. But it is not
always a false pretext, because
the sewers on streets where we
live are blocked by vegetation,
and the risk of falling into a
water-covered pothole is a real
possibility.
In foreign films
we often see scenes of crowds in
the rain. We are impressed by
the image of a cloud of
umbrellas that extends the
length of a street or the full
width of the stands in a
stadium. We inevitably compare
these scenes with the typical
appearance of our streets during
a cloudburst: nylon bags used as
protection, trying to cover
one’s head with the newspaper
Granma or a piece of cardboard;
older people waiting under the
balconies or huddled together at
a bus stop. The pleasure it
almost always gives young people
who defy the storm, running
along, soaked to the skin, and
using the first found object – a
board or an old tire – to surf
on the water, clinging to the
bumper of a truck.
These are days to
ask ourselves when we will have
a raincoat – one without holes
that fits – let alone what seems
to be a pipe dream for so many,
when the city will not collapse
because of a simple shower that
falls in the tropics.
The last domestic
appliance distributed through the merit system was a
Chinese Panda brand television. In my building there
was a meeting to give away ten brand new ones within a
community of more than three hundred people. Some
neighbors nearly came to blows during the discussion to
get the equipment, for which they had to pay four
thousand Cuban pesos*. Among those who took home the
color TVs were, coincidentally, the most combative and
ideologically inflexible.
Those who didn’t catch
the evasive Panda satisfied themselves with thinking
there would be a second round in which they’d have a
greater chance. But the Asian giant didn’t send new
televisions to feed the meritocracy, nor even spare
parts to fix the existing ones. Being on duty for the
Committee for the Defense of the Revolution (CDR) or
going to the criticism meetings have lost their
attraction because it doesn’t appear that the reward
will be the allocation of a washing machine, a telephone
line or a portable radio.
Those who made it to the
last round of the appliances allocation aren’t very
happy either, let us say. A good share of them haven’t
been able to meet the payment deadlines, as the Panda
purchase left them with a monthly payment equaling a
third of their salary. I know an elderly woman, for
example, who bought the fought-over television only
because she was convinced that she would die before she
finished paying for it.
Among those who thought
they’d received a benefit, worries are now surfacing
about the enormous monetary debt contracted with the
State. They were those who believed themselves
beneficiaries of a privilege, without noticing they were
just paying tribute to an error. The mechanism that
favored them then is the same one that today prevents us
from buying an appliance without showing convertible
currency, or without relying on a certain political
trajectory.
Translator’s note:
4,000 Cuban pesos is roughly $160 U.S. or about $180
Canadian (exchange rates as of today’s date). The
average state salary in Cuba is about 350-400 Cuban
pesos per month; the average state pension is less than
half that. At these rates, the TV would be paid off in
about three years.
We’ve gone from one
extreme to the other. Three years ago we had a
president who spoke for long hours in front of the
microphones and now we rely on another who doesn’t send
a single word our way. I confess I prefer the
restrained style, but there are a lot of explanations
outstanding which, in the face of so much discontent,
are urgent. Someone has to stand up and explain why the
wage reform failed, the reason for delaying the handover
of the so critical supply of land, and the reasons that
prevented them from reducing the gap between the Cuban
peso and the convertible currency.
A face must show itself
to give us an account of what stopped the elimination of
the need for permission to travel outside Cuba, what
happened with the repeated slogan of reducing imports,
or what path was taken by the so-called business
improvement program. The same voice that in 2007
declared that hopefully there would be “a glass of milk
within reach of everyone” needs to reveal to us now why
it has become so difficult to put the precious liquid
into the mouths of our children. This man who reignited
the illusions of many of my compatriots, must now
express himself and confess his failure or at least tell
us of his limitations.
I am waiting for a
clarification about why he hasn’t accepted Obama’s
proposal for U.S. telecommunications companies to
provide Internet to the Cuban people. I demand, like
many around me, a convincing argument for why we are not
going to join the OAS, or the reasons for not
implementing, still, the provisions of the International
Covenant on Economic, Social and Cultural Rights and the
International Covenant on Civil and Political Rights.
The list of unanswered
questions is long and to hide from so many questions is
not going to solve the problems. Please, let
somebody—with answers—show his face soon.
The victims of the last
hurricane have ceased to be newsworthy; they are only
numbers in the statistics of those who have lost their
homes. The politicians no longer travel to the disaster
zones to have their photos taken next to the injured,
and the materials to rebuild are lost in the machinery
of the bureaucracy. A few towns have been lucky enough
to be showcases for the reconstruction, but others—small
and unknown—are still filled with abandoned houses.
Near Cienfuegos, a
sheltered family suspects the cement and iron to raise
their walls have been stopped by the hands of others who
can pay more. Those who have grown tired of waiting for
the rebirth of their home villages come to the outskirts
of Havana to build their houses out of tin and
cardboard. They don’t want to be the victims of the
next cyclone because these natural disasters, like Ike
and Gustav, only throw light on the other disaster, the
disaster of unproductivity and inertia that affects us
all.
It will soon be a year
since thousands of homes came to have only the sky for a
roof. Caletone, a town near Gibara that doesn’t even
appear in the Atlas of Cuba, is still deep in
destruction. Its inhabitants know that with the current
economic crisis it would be a miracle if the necessary
resources reach their hands. They have fallen into that
no man’s land caused by indifference, the triumphalism
of the press and the winds—not of hurricane force, but
of waiting.
Music of Ernesto Lecuona:
“Noche Azul” (Blue Night)
An uncertain summer awaits us, where they announce power
cuts, higher prices and where there is even a prediction
of an emigration stampede. Many Cubans, however, faced
with the dilemma of solving their daily problems or
trying to change something, prefer to concentrate on
personal survival. They organize an escape from the
national borders, evade the laws or, what amounts to the
same thing, turn to crime. There are not only those who
climb through the window of a warehouse at night or grab
the backpack of an innocent tourist, but also the
warehouseman who alters invoices or the custodian who
breaks the seal of the container he is protecting. There
is a socially accepted way of breaking the law that
consists of stealing from the State. It includes the
waiter who adds to the prices or introduces goods into
the restaurant that he purchased himself to sell as if
they were “of the house” and the shopkeeper who changes
the list of customers at the ration market so he will
have leftover goods.
The line of illegality
also extends to the hotel desk clerk who, in cahoots
with the manager, rents a room off the register, the
taxi driver who makes a trip without turning on the
meter, or the lathe operator who produces a piece
“outside” the production plan. The customs officer who
lets prohibited objects through, the police who don’t
impose a fine, the housing official who speeds up an
application, the teacher who raises a grade, and the
inspector who becomes blind to the violations he should
report.
The walls of the bubble
that protect the speeches are strengthened by the
profits from these “misdeeds,” but they also discourage
public protest. The fruits of so many illegalities end
up on the counters of foreign currency shops, they are
exchanged for the rechargeable lamps that will light
some houses this summer. Meanwhile, outside, who cares
that the blackout reigns.
San Lázaro is the saint
of sores and dogs; his saint’s day is December 17. His
name has been given to a long street in Central Havana,
filled with scars and abandoned animals. It doesn’t have
the magic of the avenue that borders the Malecón along
the waterfront and between its peeling facades flow the
lives of thousands of people. For some years it was the
street most commonly used to go to Vedado, and so enjoys
the affection of a well-known place. To traverse it is
to see the real Havana, that which the tourist ads show
in different colors.
A few weeks ago I made
the video I’m showing you today, because I have a
premonition that a day will come when everything will
look different in this street. My prediction doesn’t
come—this time—from pessimism, nor from the belief that
half the houses will fall down before repairs start. San
Lázaro will heal and shrug off the ochre colors you now
see. I will be there with my camera, to show it to you
then.
What is happening in
Iran and its dissemination through the Internet is a
lesson for Cuban bloggers. The authoritarians of the
court also must be taking note of what great dangers
result from—in these events—Twitter, Facebook, and
mobile phones. Seeing those young Iranians use all the
technology to denounce the injustice, I notice
everything that we lack to support those who maintain
blogs from the island. The acid test of our incipient
virtual community has not yet arrived, but maybe it will
surprise us tomorrow… with the aggravation of low
connectivity.
In our blogger meetings,
which we hold every week, we watched a small video about
the Iranian cybernauts. I watched it again today in
lieu of the images of the demonstrations that our
official television refuses to show. I haven’t
contemplated the faces painted green, nor heard any
announcer speak of the seven dead, but with this brief
animated short I can imagine everything. I visualize an
entire generation weary of old structures that it wants
to change, a people—like me—who has ceased to believe in
enlightened leaders who lead us like cattle. In the
midst of all this, to our satisfaction, are the bytes
and screens modifying the form of protest.
On days like this I
greatly regret not being able to be online; I feel like
I’m choking having to wait to hear all the news. If
there’s still time for me to extend my solidarity to the
Iranian bloggers, then here is a post to tell them:
“Today it’s you, tomorrow it could well be us.”
A news release has
delighted some and annoyed others: spelling will once
again be taken into account in the assessments of Cuban
schools. The reign of the missing accents and of “s”
replaced by “c” is about to end, according to an
announcement made on TV a few weeks ago. Students could
fail an exam or even have to repeat the school year if
they don’t master the rules of spelling the complex and
beautiful language that is Spanish. We linguists, as
expected, are giddy with relief.
I had already become
accustomed to deciphering strange words composed
according to the personal tastes of each writer. Even
on the blackboards, written by the teachers themselves,
the terminology of a new language appeared, adhering to
no rules or standards. Not even my self-assured
phonetics, where the “h” has always seemed unnecessary,
could remain calm in the face of five-letter words with
four errors. I’m not exaggerating; once I reviewed a
history exam where someone had written “sibir” for
“civil”. Of course in that case they were talking about
a concept little known in a society like this one, where
citizens are considered soldiers, not entities with
rights.
One day I got a major
fright, however, when I was dictating to the amusing
students at a secondary school in Zanja Street. I
happened to come across, on the list of words, the title
of the greatest classic of Hispanic letters. It was a
way of reviewing the figure of Cervantes without
overloading the test with complicated words such as
“shortages” or “proposition.” The truth is that on
reviewing the sheets from that day I found at least a
couple of students who had spelled “Quixote” with a
“K”. I could not believe that someone would use a
letter with such a small presence in the Spanish
dictionaries to write the symbol of our Spanish
heritage.
Since that day I
understood that spelling is the expression of a general
culture that has its basis in reading and books. How
can one ask them to use the appropriate consonants if
they don’t even know the meaning and history and certain
words? The officials of the Ministry of Education
sensed the same thing when they chose to remove spelling
from the evaluations. Hence, Sancho came to be called
“Zancho” and Rocinante… well… who can venture to say
what they turned Rocinante into.
If there were an altar to technology I wouldn’t hesitate
to light a couple of candles there. These cables,
circuits and chips have brought so much more
information, autonomy and freedom to my life than that
generated by the will of the politicians or popular
pressure. This month marks the fifteenth anniversary of
my building my first computer, which represented a
hundred and eighty degree turn in my existence. My
hand is a bit distorted because of the mouse, most of
the time I think as if I were designing for
Dreamweaver, and I’m even tempted to press
“control+alt+del” for a re-set when I don’t like what’s
going on around me.
And now a new service
has emerged—sending out news reports via SMS—that
increases my faith in the power of these technological
gadgets. Since last week I’ve known about a page called
Granpa (we hope it will be more objective than
Granma) that sends news to cell phones located in
Cuba. All you have to do is leave your phone number and
choose the sources you’d like to receive, to start
reading the headlines on your cell.
I wish the best of luck
to those who implemented such a good idea, which is so
necessary in these times we’re living in. Since we
don’t have a paper newspaper to tell us everything the
official press keeps hidden, a big welcome to the news
through electrical impulses and kudos for this
information flashing on the screens of our phones.
Hilda Molina and I share a couple of rare “privileges”;
we were both mentioned in the prologue of the book
Fidel, Bolivia and Something More and we were both
denied, on several occasions, permission to leave Cuba.
In her case the immigration authorities justified this
refusal based on her past as a scientist. They spread
the rumor that she was in possession of classified
information that should not be known beyond our
borders. Many of us suspected, however, that this
wasn’t the real reason for keeping her here, rather it
was the whim of a man who demanded her forced
imprisonment.
My “crime” is located in
the future, in that part of tomorrow where neither the
well-known prologue writer nor the limitations on
leaving the Island will exist. My detention is not
about what I’ve done but about what I might do; the
“fault” falls on this citizen I am not, yet, but who is
incubating in this blog. In any event the punishment is
the same for both, because a system based on limits,
controls and closures knows only how to penalize by
locking up. For Hilda this sanction just ended;
although one accused never again sleeps peacefully,
faced with the fear of returning to her cell.
I am happy for her
family and for her, but troubled by the existence of
those who decide who leaves and who enters Cuba. I feel
sorry for someone whose reunification with her family
depends on a long negotiation between parties,
governments and presidents. I see an aging woman who
will finally be able to meet her grandchildren and whom
nothing can compensate for so many years of loneliness
and anguish. I can only suggest that she not harbor
resentment against her jailers, because they are
imprisoned today by their power, their fear and the
inevitable proximity of their end.
I’m thirty-three with
two gray hairs. I’ve spent at least half my life
wishing for a change on my Island. In the summer of
1990, I peeked out the shutters of my house at the
corner of Lealtad and Lagunas, when people’s shouting
made me think of a revolt. From there I saw rafts
carried on shoulders to the sea and saw the police
trucks controlling the nonconformity. The anxious faces
of my family foretold that soon the situation would
evolve, but instead the problems became chronic and
solutions were postponed. After I had my son, between
blackouts and calls of “don’t despair,” I understood
that it would only happen if we ourselves could make it
happen.
This June has begun very
similar to those dark years of the Special Period.*
Uneasiness, power cuts in some neighborhoods, and a
general sensation that we are going downhill. I’m no
longer that fearful and passive teenager whose parents
said so many times, “Go to bed, Yoani, today we have
nothing to eat.” I’m not inclined to accept another era
of slogans and empty plates, of a city stopped by lack
of fuel and stubborn leaders with full refrigerators.
Nor do I think of going anywhere, so the sea will not be
the solution in my case for this new cycle of calamities
which is starting.
The restless seed of Teo
will soon fertilize a woman to create another generation
that waits. I refuse to believe that there will be
adults looking out the window hoping for something to
happen, Cubans full of dreams deferred.
Translator’s note:
Special Period: The extremely difficult era after the
fall of the Soviet Union and the loss of its monetary
support for Cuba.
-----------------------------
The next Frankenstein
He
exchanged a brand name watch to get the microprocessor; his
brother left the motherboard behind when he left the country.
All he lacks is the RAM memory to build the next Frankenstein,
with which he’ll connect to the intranet set up by several young
people in his building. Almost thirty, he’s been building his
own computers for a decade, thanks to the black market in
computer parts. At first they were real monstrosities, full of
innovations, but over time his computers have become more
presentable and competitive.
Now he’s building a new
“creature” to start his own business copying DVDs so he can
leave his boring job at a state agency. A complex video editing
program allows him to advertise himself as a “specialist in
filming weddings and quinceaneras,” a very well-paid
informal occupation. Among the dreams he cherishes is getting
on the Internet and finding a girlfriend in the chat rooms one
who can get him out of here. He fantasizes her gift to him on
their wedding day, a computer he doesn’t need to add a single
screw to.
When it was announced that Raúl
Castro would allow the sale of computers to Cubans, this
alternative techie was happy he wouldn’t have to wait so long.
But with the price of a laptop sold today in the stores in
convertible pesos, he could acquire, informally, the parts to
build at least three PCs. However his Frankenstein is missing
the most important thing; the possibility of walking out of
there and taking his first steps on the web. To make a being
from a simple collection of circuits, you need the lightening of
connectivity, the current of energy that will awaken him to
life.
At a school in Cerro, several foreign visitors were coming to
donate notebooks and pencils. Two days beforehand the teacher
sat the hardest working students in the front row and asked them
to ask their parents for ornamental plants. The director
explained in the morning assembly that while the distinguished
guests were with them they couldn’t run during recess nor would
they allow the sale of candy near the main entrance.
That Wednesday when the
delegation arrived at the educational institution, they served
chicken for lunch and the classroom televisions didn’t show the
usual Mexican soap operas, only tele-classes. The fifth grade
teacher avoided the red lycra she prefers and came dressed in a
warm jacket she’d normally wear to weddings or funerals. Even
the young student teacher was different in that she didn’t
demand that the children, like every other day, give her a share
of the snacks they brought from home.
The visit seemed to be going
well; the school supplies had been delivered and the modern cars
parked outside would soon carry off the smiling group of
outsiders. But something unexpected happened: one of the guests
broke the predetermined protocol and asked to use the bathroom.
The seams of the hasty “cosmetic surgery” that had been applied
to the school were evident in that unhealthy space of a few
square meters. The months it had gone without cleaning, the
clogged sinks, the absence of doors between one stall and
another, showed up the farce of normality they’d tried to hard
to present.
The spontaneous guest left the
bathroom with his face flushed and went without speaking to the
exit. After seeing the machinery behind the stage he understood
that instead of paper and colored pencils, the next time they
should bring disinfectants, cleaning cloths and pay for the
services of a plumber.
To see the English
translation, put your mouse in the box in the middle of the
screen.
Yesterday, May 9, I went to the
Meliá Cohiba hotel to check if the Internet access limitations
for Cubans continue. Several friends had told me that the
measure had been rescinded… but I wanted to check for myself. So
Reinaldo and I went and made this little video.
The “tourist” who appears to be
reading the newspaper Granma is me.
Translator’s Note: The
English version of the video is now posted, but I’ve decided to
leave the transcript below as people seem to be finding it
useful.
Video Transcript
Reinaldo – Buenes tardes joven.
Para comprar una hora de internet.
Good afternoon, Miss. I’d like to buy an hour of internet.
Mujer (Raquel) – Me permite tu
pasaporte? Por favor.
May I see your passport please.
R – No, yo… carta de identidad
es lo que yo tengo.
No, what I have is an identity card.
M – No, no le puedo vender una
hora de Internet, porque la conexión aquí es solamente para
extranjeros.
No, I can’t sell you an hour of Internet, because the connection
here is only for foreigners.
R – Discuple, es que yo no oigo
bien.
Excuse me, I don’t think I heard you clearly.
M – Que la conexión aquí es
solamente para los extranjeros.
The connection here is only for foreigners.
R – Desde cuando es eso?
Since when is this?
M – Hace un mes.
Since one month.
R – Yo vine la semana pasada y
me conecte.
I came last week and connected.
M – Y quien la vendía el ticket?
And who sold you the ticket?
R – No sé el nombre. Como mismo
no la he preguntado el nombre a usted, tampoco se lo pregunte a
la…
I don’t know the name. Just as I didn’t ask your name, neither
did I ask…
M – Mi nombre es Raquel.
My name is Raquel.
R – Si, pero usted no es la
unica persona que trabaja aquí. Aquí hay una muchacha rubia…
Yes, but you aren’t the only person who works here. There’s a
red-headed girl…
R – Hace ocho dias.
It was eight days ago.
M – Ya….
Now…
M – Hay una resolución que dice
que solamente es para extranjeros. Mire aquí…
There’s a resolution that says it’s only for foreigners. Look
here…
R – Si.
Yes
R – Esta es la…
This is the…
M – Venga acá…y…a…ver.
Come here… and… see.
R – Pero esto es solamente en
este hotel?
But is this only in this hotel?
R – Esto se está haciendo en
todos los hoteles?
Is this being done in all the hotels?
R – Si, porque yo me conecto
frequentamente en el Nacional y en el Presidente.
Because I frequently connect in the National and the President.
M – Creo que en el Presidente,
todavía no se ha establecido este sistema.
I think in the President they still haven’t established this
system.
R – Pero, eso es una cosa que
viene… una resolución. Usted me disculpa que le haga tantas
preguntas.
But this is something that comes… a resolution. Forgive me for
asking so many questions.
R – Es una resolución para este
hotel, para la agencia Melia, para…?
Is this a resolution of this hotel, of the Melia company, of…?
M – No, eso es una resolución
del MINTUR.
No, it’s a resolution from MINTUR.
R – Del Ministerior de Turismo?
From the Tourism Ministry?
M – Si.
Yes.
R — … no será del Ministerio de
Comunicaciones?
It’s not from the Communications Ministry?
M – Tengo entendido que tiene
que ver con el MINTUR y con ETECSA.
I’ve been given to understand that it comes from MINTUR and
ETESCA.
M – Porque de hecho, este nuevo
tipo de conexion es de ETESCA.
Because of the fact that this new type of connection is from
ETESCA.
R – Bueno y eso, como uno puedo
discutir eso? Verlo con alguien?
OK, and this, how can one dispute this? See someone about it?
R – Vaya, no es con usted con
quien lo voy a discutir, porque desde luego usted es una persona
que está cumpliendo con su trabajo.
Look, I don’t have an argument with you, because after all you
are a person who is just doing your job.
M – Si dirije allí, a la
Conserjería y allí usted refleja cualquier queja que usted
quiera.
Yes, you can go to Reception and lodge any complaints you like.
R – Porque usted sabe que eso
viola mis derechos constitucionales.
Because you know this violates my constitutional rights.
R – Porque está escrito en la
constitución de nuestra Republica que esta prohibida la
discriminacion por origen nacional.
Because it’s written in the constitution of our Republic that
discrimination based on national origin is prohibited.
R – Y entonces yo me siento
discriminado porque tengo como origen nacional el de Cuba.
And I feel discriminated against because my national origin is
Cuban.
R – Es como se dijeron aqui:
“Esta Internet es para todo el mundo, menos para los mexicanos.”
It’s as if they said here: “This Internet is for the whole world
except Mexicans.”
R – Es lo mismo, no?
It’s the same, no?
R – Me están discriminando por
mi origen nacional.
I’m being discriminated against for my national origin
R – No hay una sola ley o
reglamento interno que puede ir por encima de los derechos
constitucionales de los ciudadanos.
There’s not a single law or internal regulation that can
supersede the constitutional rights of citizens.
R – Diga yo, No?
Aren’t I right?
M – Yo lo único que tengo que…
Bueno, pues cumplir con mi deber.
I’m just that one who has to… I’m just doing my duty.
R – Si claro, yo conozco eso.
Yes, of course, I know that.
R – Bueno Raquel, pues muchas
gracias y esperamos a ver la próxima vez que venga aquí, ya
seguro que derogado eso.
OK Raquel, and many thanks and I hope to see you the next time I
come here, I’m sure this will be repealed.
M – A bueno… ojala… a ver.
OK… hopefully… we’ll see…
A whole rhetoric—so widespread in the sixties of the last
century—displays its death throes in the millennium that
recently began. It’s a type of discussion that reminds me of the
“barricades,” in that opponents crouch behind the parapets and
from this safe vantage point throw insults instead of arguments.
Gianni Minà has dusted off a little of this worn out artillery.
The arsenal he has flung at me is composed of accusations that I
am manufactured by the North and that I have forgotten to
mention—on purpose—the advantages of today’s Cuban system. In
conclusion he repeats the refrain that I am “unknown” in Cuba,
forgetting that I have always boasted of my smallness and
insignificance.
Minà, however, has a history of
great deeds. He managed to interview the one who has guided the
destiny of my country for five decades, when we Cubans ourselves
have not been able to question him or respond to him with our
ballots. The book that resulted from that meeting was in the
bookstores during the years when I was thinking of leaving
college because I did not have shoes to wear. From this side of
the world, away from the windows displaying his extensive
interview in a deluxe edition, something very different was
happening: pockets were emptying, frustration growing and fear
proliferating. None of this appeared in the eulogistic phrases
of that publication and the author didn’t care to prepare a
second edition to fill in these omissions.
I would like to suggest a couple
of questions for a new meeting between him and Fidel Castro,
which will probably never happen. Investigate Mr. Minà—you who
can speak with Him—why he hasn’t decreed an amnesty for Adolfo
Fernández Sainz and his colleagues, who have now served six
years in prison for crimes of opinion. Mark on your agenda,
please, the doubts my neighbor has about the denial of
permission for his brother to enter Cuba, after “deserting”
while at a conference abroad. Transmit to him the question of my
son Teo who doesn’t understand why, to study in higher
education, one must meet a set of ideological requirements.
If you can get close to
Him—closer than any of us could manage—ask him to let these
“unknown” citizens freely associate, found a newspaper, create a
radio station, run for president, or enjoy that right that you
exercise in full, of publicly writing opinions very different
from those of your country. I assure you that this interview—the
one you will never have—would be a bestseller on this Island.
I
have gone a couple of days without connecting to the Internet,
because a new complication has appeared in the road of
alternative bloggers. Several hotels in the country demand, in
order to connect to the web, that you prove a life in a place
outside the Cuban archipelago. The desk clerks tell me—even
though they are just as native as I am—that that blue card will
not allow me to dive into the vast World Wide Web. “It’s a
decision that comes from above,” a woman says to me, as if a
decision of this type could be taken at a level other than the
offices of the government.
I see it will be hard to change
myself into a foreigner overnight. So the only thing left is to
protest against such a ban and to make public the existence of a
new apartheid. I will have to go back in the guise of a
tourist, although this time I will have to learn a language as
complicated as Hungarian to fool those who sell the access
cards. Maybe I can prowl around the hotels, ready to ask the
foreigners to buy—for me—this forbidden entrance key, this safe
conduct I need “to not be Cuban.”
I go wandering with my smallest grandson through the streets of
a Havana that is both different and at the same time familiar.
I don’t have a blog and my seventy years show in every wrinkle
of my face and in my long white braid. Even though this could
be a dark futuristic fantasy, I prefer to believe that we are
walking through a city reborn and prosperous. We come to the
park to take the sun and I try—like all old people—to tell him
about my times, those years when I was thin and displayed the
energy he now exhibits.
Spanish continues to be the
mother tongue of my offspring but the boy looks at me as if he
doesn’t understand anything I say. He casts a doubtful grimace
my way when I refer to the “Special Period,” “the ration book”
and “rationed products” or “ideological loyalty.” His problems
are so different, how could he understand those I once had? He
displays without embarrassment some historical confusion and
calls a dead leader by the name of a salsa singer. He’s
incapable of differentiating between the speech decreeing the
socialist character of the Revolution and that announcing the
collapse of the Soviet Union.
Out of respect he doesn’t tell
me to be quiet, but I can see in his eyes that all my chatter
bores him. “Grandma is stuck in the past,” he’ll say when I
leave, but in front of me he pretends to listen to antiquated
anecdotes about a remote Cuba. This boy doesn’t know that the
premonition of his existence allowed me to maintain my sanity
forty years ago. Anticipating him—with his expression of
disbelief sitting on a park bench in the Havana of the
future—kept me from taking the way of the sea, of pretending, of
silence. I’ve made it here thanks to him and instead of telling
him that, I confuse him with my anecdotes about what happened,
about things that will never happen again.
They say that when the wall fell and the two Germanys united,
people coming from the east had never eaten a banana. They
looked ecstatically at the long fruit that the disrupted markets
of East Germany hadn’t sold in all the years of the centrally
planned economy. I imagine that trying the sweet mass of a
banana had to be like tasting the end of a system that lasted
fifty years. Between these two “flavors” I would prefer
experiencing the second because the other has been on my table
since I was little.
The banana was—next to the
orange—one of the basic fruits in our house, long before the
Germans knew of its existence. We Cubans don’t have a wall to
knock down by biting its upright consistency, but we owe it to
the banana that our nourishment in the nineties wasn’t more
frugal. “Fufu,” made with plantains mashed with pork rinds, was
for weeks the only food for my adolescent body. As a beneficiary
of its virtues I’d like to erect a monument, although to do so
we’d have to import an example from Costa Rica to use as model
for the much-deserved statue.
I haven’t seen a banana since
last September when hurricanes ravaged the plantations. I refuse
to believe that after having survived the disastrous
agricultural plans and the unfortunate genetic crossings, we are
going to lose it now. This fruit, which managed to overcome the
experiments of the Great Farmer in Chief, can’t be allowed to
die at the hands of a couple of cyclones. I fear that we—like
the people of Berlin in 1989—are on the verge of running
anxiously after the taste of banana.
Yesterday was an intense day.
There was a parade in the morning, a heavy rain shower in the
afternoon, and some impertinents banging on our pots at
eight-thirty in the evening. The concentration in the Plaza of
the Revolution looked the same as every year, the rain was just
as humid, and the kitchen chorus banging on pots and pans
sounded like the peculiar symphony of a few. I’m posting here a
few samples of sound and images, so you can live the first of
May as I felt it… with all its intensity and craziness.
From my terrace one heard little
reaction to the first bangs on the pot, but we have the joy of
knowing they heard us a long way off. Through a quick phone
survey I knew that in the city of Pinar del Rio they also
noticed the sound of metal, while several neighborhoods in
Havana remained silent. The limited drumming arose from the
smallness of the individual who dared, and not from the massive
automatism of those who paraded in the morning. Such is the
difference between a spontaneous tweet-tweet and directed
crowing.
Every spark is small, I told
someone who asked me about the magnitude of what happened last
night and, at its debut, a tool of expression is used timidly.
On hearing about the call that was circulating on the internet,
I met with several friends who thought the simple gesture of
turning off the light would be more feasible. The kitchen chorus
involves exposing oneself too much and there are many people who
are still afraid of reprisals. Making the house dark is
something that can be done without leaving evidence and is the
kind of gesture that our citizens are ready to make, not more.
In spite of the few notes heard,
I think it changed something in the routine of International
Workers’ Day. It was just a slight banging of spoons on tin,
that came after the first downpour of May.
The two news reports followed
one after another, so contradictory that the announcer himself
had to make an effort to hide his discomfort. In the first they
talked about the crowds of people this coming May First, while
the second announced an alert regarding a possible epidemic of
swine flu. As of Tuesday afternoon a number of timely
preventative measures are being taking throughout the country.
However, the intention of bringing together nearly a million
people in the parade this coming Friday, stands.
My experience with colds and
flu-like illnesses tells me that a huge mass of people is the
scenario most conducive to their spread. The announced measures
should include, for the minimum protection, the postponement or
cancellation of the festivities for International Workers’ Day.
I don’t want to create unnecessary alarm. I don’t know anyone
who is infected and an official statement has been released
saying that there are no recorded cases of this disease, but
remember they told us the same thing for a long time about AIDS,
before finally confessing that it had entered Cuba, not to
mention keeping secret the number of dengue fever cases each
year.
With all humility, I ask the
Cuban government to re-think the idea of bringing together
thousands of people at this time. Please, show less concern
about the spectacle and more protection for the citizenry.
Among several friends we’ve started a small information service
through SMS. News not mentioned in the official media is sent
through the mobile phone to a group of people who then send it
on to others. Even though it may seem a somewhat limited
channel—because the number of Cubans with cell phones is small—I
have a lot of faith in its future potential. It’s enough that
someone would like to pass on a brief headline to another
interested person for this new information pathway to grow.
I believe we should find
solutions to developing this rustic “Newsletter.” Perhaps those
who want to help could create a website where we can leave our
mobile number and then we can get the news for free. We live in
a country where distributing a newspaper on paper could result
in our being penalized for the crime of “enemy propaganda,”
hence the virtual pathways need to be strengthened… at least
while they haven’t created a new law to prohibit them. As it
happens, we already have a group a Cubans using our mobiles to
expand our sources of information. This little accessory
hanging from the hip could well come to be all the newspapers we
lack at the kiosks.
Last week we were talking about ants, people and the small traditions
that sustain us day to day. Well, a few meters from my house I found
this billboard with the same metaphor of the insects. Unlike the
anthill imagined by me—where everyone has a place—here there is a
creature apart. It frightens me to think that the lonely little ant
represents the intellectual, or people—like me—who are informal workers
because we have no licenses to be Spanish teachers or other worthy
occupations. The tiny segregated one could refer to those who receive
remittances and see no sense in working for a salary more symbolic than
useful. On the left, below this billboard, you could see a woman who
sells coffee at the corner of my house, who gets up at five to brew it
and plays hide-and-seek with the police. The young man who left his
studies and sews shoes at the workshop of his cousin, though the Sector
Head considers him an habitual vagrant, a derelict, who refuses a job
commensurate with his qualifications because he’s not politically
correct. Many could be the tiny ant who carries no leaves in his hands…
because the others are not only the workers, but also the authorities,
the group of those who never get out of line.
Until the 27th of this month, each new post will carry a
reminder of the online voting for the Bobs awards. Remember that
Generation Y is competing in three categories: Best Weblog,
Reporters Without Borders Special Award and Best Blog in Spanish.
Here is the link:
Translator’s note: You can leave a comment
on the BOBs Awards website, which strengthens your vote. The final
choices will be made by the judges, not by votes alone. So tell them WHY
Yoani’s blog is the best!!!! Thank you! (Yes, sorry, how to
leave a comment is not obvious. Go to any of the category pages and go
to Yoani’s blog and click on ‘details’. Then you will see in the middle
of the page, under the blog picture and above the ratings, in light blue
type, “Rate this”. Click on that and the comment screen will appear.
Your comment will show up in every category she’s competing in, so you
only need to leave it once.)
Two of my friends were married in the nineties so that they could buy
the cake and beer that the ration market allowed for weddings. They
were not a couple and had never exchanged more than a hug, but reselling
the drinks and the sugary desert produced enough money to live for
several months, each in his own place. Like them, a lot of people
signed the marriage record in hopes of the desired products and the
three honeymoon nights in a hotel, listed at great price on the black
market.
With these examples around me, I took seriously the signing of the
marriage contract. I lived for a lot of years under a consensual union
without a trace of paper. Likewise, many of my acquaintances cohabit
with a partner with whom they have never stepped foot in a notary’s
office or gotten a certificate of their union. It’s not just a
postmodern or irreverent trend, but a loss of the sense of the sanctity
of marriage. Among the reasons for this fading sense is the absence of
a family patrimony to be preserved with the signing of a contract. What
difference would it make to a child to have legally married parents if
they lack any assets for him to inherit, or any property that needs the
oversight of laws.
Those of us under forty today, come to romantic relationships with
the property that can be contained within our own epidermis. Because
when the idyll comes to an end, the belongings—frequently—fit in a
suitcase. With the love nest located in the parents’ house and with a
salary that’s not enough to buy any durable or transferable goods, the
signed paper and legal stamp that attest to the marriage are of little
importance.
The sky is not always that precious blue of the tourist postcards.
Thank goodness, because I can not imagine a year with scorching sun
without the pause of these weeks that bring cold fronts. Since Monday a
cloud has come, bringing London to Havana and severe flooding in the
east of the country. The streets are remarkably empty at night because
the cold scares away the usual denizens of the parks and sidewalks.
Boarding a crowded bus is no longer the fastest way to acquire odor in
one’s armpits, rather the entrance to a warm and friendly space. With
the low temperatures, humor and tolerance improve; for the old, their
bones ache and hot chocolate becomes a recurring hallucination.
December is so close that it’s not worth starting anything, say those
who have postponed projects throughout the year. The time to spend more
is coming, presaging that pockets will be especially empty this
Christmas. However, the most sensitive topic is that of coats and
blankets, the little protection from the damp cold that enters through
the gaps in the windows.
I see people on the street with sweaters and thick, padded synthetic
coats, but none of these garments could be purchased with the wages they
earn from their work. One has a leather coat sent to him by a sister
who lives in New York and the striped one was given to the girl as a
gift from a tourist passing through the city. A young boy has a
waterproof raincoat inherited from his brother, who in turn got it from
an uncle who confiscates luggage at customs. The old woman crossing the
street is careful of her wool socks, which she got from a neighbor in
exchange for a blender. Only the guard at the hotel boasts a denim
jacket, with shiny new buttons.
I like the winter and the affability it awakens in people, but I know
that for many it’s the season of certain worries and shame. Of not
being able to sleep on the park bench, where the rest of the year one
gentleman with raggedy clothes has his only home. Of children mocked in
school for wearing a coat purchased during the rationing of the 1980s.
The cold emphasizes the differences between those who can close the door
and those who don’t have a house with windows that shut. It highlights
the contrast between those with a long-sleeved garment and those who
wear two sweaters because they don’t have a coat. Everything depends
on the thermometer and its not dropping another ten degrees, because the
housing and clothes of the poor will not withstand a single snowflake.
A boy approaches me to ask if I am “Yoani.” He extends a sweaty and
cold hand to me. I’m afraid that he’s coming to give me the first slap,
but he only points, “Hopefully you are real. Because now we’ve seen
everything!” He makes me want to follow him and show him my navel.
There is no bigger proof that one exists, that one is “real,” than a
navel knotted in the abdomen. He’s leaving and with the full weight his
doubt and of his faith in me—this last is what frightens me the most.
He didn’t give me time to warn him that I don’t intend to found any
creed, certainly his uncertainties left me more relieved than his
possible convictions.
If the boy with the cold hand and the short sentences reads this
post, I want to tell you that I can’t save you. It’s not me whom he
should burden with the responsibility that we should take together. I
too have seen everything… people who applaud and then betray; hands that
slap on the back and in the end push away; cries of “Viva” that are
transformed into whispers of hate… However, I don’t have to know who he
is to be sure that we share doubts, dreams and guilt.
A little pioneer shouts slogans at school in the morning. Her face
reddens and a vein bulges in her forehead, reinforcing her shrieks.
Among the phrases she repeats is a dreadful metaphor: “We will see the
island will sink into the sea first, rather than give up the glory we
have lived.” On a Committee for the Defense of the Revolution (CDR)
mural, a few words take up the entire top: “If I advance follow me, if
I pause push me, if I retreat kill me.” The newspaper this Saturday
demonstrated the same thing, when the Maximum Leader published one of
his Reflections: “Following lives laid down and so much sacrifice
defending sovereignty and justice, one cannot offer Cuba the other shore
of capitalism.”
Numantia returns to my memory and I refuse the scaremongering it
implies. I thought of this story once, when a girl ran to the shelter
as the sirens announced an invasion that never came. The insular shelf
will not collapse—I regret to give the heralds of the debacle this
news—because we have one or another government, a system of this kind or
that. The trees will not turn pale, the stones that saw the indigenous
people die out will not change places, and probably the sea itself will
not notice. So please, do not frighten me with cataclysms and
apocalypses. I’m much too old for that now.
Everything that will happen is already happening. Numantia will only
happen in the minds of some, and in those of others the future will be
much longer than what is left behind.
Translator’s note:
Numantia, a town in what is now Spain, was conquered and destroyed by
the Romans in 133 BC.
Days ago, when I found out that Generation Y was a
finalist in the Bitacoras.com awards,
I wrote a letter to the organizers of the event. I learned today of the
prize awarded by the jury and the lines written that Tuesday are
appropriate to celebrate the triumph:
Make it or don’t make it, win or don’t win, I feel like the
disabled runner that manages to reach the finish line, even if he
does it after everyone has passed the flag. In my case, the key is
not in my coming out ahead, but rather in overcoming my own demons
who have told me many times, “Leave the race,” “It’s not worth the
pain,” “You can’t do anything.”
Well yes friends, we have moved the line. I crawling, you giving
encouragement and some offering insults as incentives. It’s too bad
that the stadium is half empty, missing those who cannot access the site
from within Cuba. To them, so that they will undertake their own
marathons, this prize is dedicated.
* Clearly I do not mean the disabled who are competing in the
Paralympic Games, but others who have all their limbs available to them.
To relax a little bit, because I see that the blog is sliding down the
slippery slope of drama, I am posting a video clip made by Orlando Luis
Pardo. This is a song by the Russian singer-songwriter Vladimir
Vysotsky. A member of Porno
para Ricardo, Ciro Garcia, made a version that, coupled with the
photographs of Orlando, makes you want to slit your wrists. Please do
not bleed all over the blog.
A hug to all and enjoy the theme, “The
boats.” If you want to know more about Ciro’s project, visit the site
of La Babosa Azul
[The Blue Fool].
. New Cuba Coalition P. O. Box 14077
Washington, D. C. 20044-4077
Dr. Emilio-Adolfo Rivero — President
Ernesto Díaz-Rodríguez — Vice President e-mail:
cuba@idt.net